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Friday, June 25, 2021

Wine Enthusiast

Wine Enthusiast


10 Bottles That Prove Some of the Best Bourbon Isn’t From Kentucky

Posted: 25 Jun 2021 05:00 AM PDT

Whiskey in glass next to bottle on wooden table
Getty

It's a common misconception that Bourbon must be produced in Kentucky to be called Bourbon. But of all the regulations that govern the spirit, being distilled in Kentucky is not one of them.

Bourbon must be distilled in the United States, contain 51% corn in the mash, aged in new charred oak barrels, distilled to no more than 160 proof and bottled at 80 proof or higher. The corn-based mash gives a richer sweeter tasting whisky making it great for sipping but it is also great for cocktails. While the vast majority of Bourbon comes from Kentucky, stand-out offerings are being made across the U.S.

From Texas to Kansas, and even an Indiana Bourbon cut with water from the Pacific, here are some of our favorites.

18th Street Distillery Spirit Thief Selection Bourbon; $100, 95 points. Complex aromas include dried fig, dried cherry and vanilla. The palate opens with spice and dark fruit, similar to Port or PX Sherry. Adding water melds everything together into rich fruitcake studded with raisin, dried cherry and candied orange peel, finishing long with nutmeg and cinnamon accents. Each sip warms all the way down. Single Barrel #17-0037. —Kara Newman

Remus Repeal Reserve Series IV Bourbon; $85, 93 points. A blend of two high-rye Bourbons distilled in 2008, this annual release commemorates the repeal of Prohibition. The aroma teases dried figs and dates alongside toffee richness. The palate echoes those dark notes, showing toffee, clove and allspice that lead to tingly cayenne and ginger heat on the tip of the tongue. The final impression is drying and spiced, with a satisfying vanilla fade. —K.N.

Sipes' Straight Bourbon Whiskey; $50, 93 points. This is a four-year-old Bourbon finished in rum casks. Overall, it's a relatively dry sipper, opening with oak, dusty cocoa and leather, expanding into a big, spiced finale that's a flurry of ginger and nutmeg. —K.N.

Milam & Greene The Castle Hill Series Bourbon; $130, 91 points. This is a 13-year-old Bourbon batched from a lot of just 20 barrels. The caramel aroma takes a minute to open up and shrug off a medicinal hint. The palate has a similar flavor profile, though adding water adjusts it to cocoa powder and clove, drying into an espresso and unsweetened chocolate finish accented with allspice. —K.N.

Rod & Hammer's SLO Stills Bourbon; $40, 91 points. A particularly light and mellow take on Bourbon, the liquid is distilled in Indiana, aged two years and cut with water from the Pacific to add some California flair. Look for a honeyed hue and pungent aromas that suggest grilled pineapple, dried apricot and cut grass. The drying, slightly viscous palate shows golden raisin, dried apricot and a butterscotch tinge, fading into clove and brisk lemon peel on the exit. —K.N.

Broken Top Bourbon; $40, 90 points. Look for mild dried apricot, cedar and honey aromas. The palate incorporates ginger, honey and lemon peel. Adding water coaxes out a gentle chamomile note. Overall, it suggests chamomile tea with honey and lemon, with a light flick of ginger at the end. Take advantage by mixing into hot toddies. —K.N.

We Recommend:

Gunnar's Wheated Bourbon; $30, 90 points. A "wheater" from the Wheat State, this brings a pleasing vanilla aroma and mellow palate. Adding water transforms toffee and oak into smooth caramel and crème brûlée sprinkled with cracked black pepper. Best Buy. —K.N.

Paddleford Creek Bourbon; $23, 90 points. Vanilla and oak aromas light the way. The palate opens with oak and fleeting cherry sweetness. Adding water brings more vanilla and cookie dough forward. The finish sizzles with clove and nutmeg. Best Buy.

Brewers Release Special Beers to Celebrate Pride Month. What Happens Next?

Posted: 25 Jun 2021 04:30 AM PDT

Pride beer rainbow
Getty

"I'm not the only queer person in the beer industry who enters June with excitement and a sense of dread," says Christopher Shepard, senior editor of Craft Brew News, an industry publication. "You see these posts [on social media from breweries], and it feels kind of nice and it feels kind of hollow."

Launched to promote awareness and advocacy, Pride Month is a commemoration of the Stonewall Rebellion in New York City on June 28, 1969. In recent years, as June approaches, many breweries wrap beers in rainbow colors and pledge support to LGBTQ+ causes.

Shepard says that truly inclusive operations must donate their time, attention and money "from July to May as well."

Pride beers are usually available for only a few weeks. Some of this year's offerings include Kaleidoscope Tropical Witbier, a 4.8% alcohol by volume (abv) beer released by Barrel House Z in Massachusetts. The brewer says that some proceeds will go to BAGLY, a Boston-area group that supports LGBTQ+ youth. Urban South in Louisiana released two new offerings, a beer and a hard seltzer, to celebrate Pride 2021.

Samuel Adams and New Belgium Brewing, two of the country's largest breweries, teamed for Love Conquers Ale, a 4.9% abv, limited-edition ale. The companies say that all proceeds will go to GLAAD.

Stonewall Inn plaque
A plaque at Stonewall Inn / Photo by Joan Slatkin/Education Images/Universal Images Group via Getty

Pride beers tend to have modest distribution, but they don't often languish on the shelves, says Kate Baker, cofounder of Craft Beer Cellar, a beer store in Belmont, Massachusetts.

"Breweries are not brewing a ton of these beers, and certainly, they are not doing it year-round, except Brooklyn Brewery’s The Stonewall Inn IPA, which is pretty awesome," says Baker. Craft Beer Cellar recently started to sell Banded Brewing's Here pale ale. Baker says she's "thrilled" that its label features the transgender flag prominently alongside the Pride flag.

As Baker ticks through several Pride beers available at her shop this year, she notes that their sales tend to mirror year-round craft beer trends. "[It] seems like the gay IPA beers sell better, as would be expected," she says with a laugh.

Like Shepard, Baker stresses the need for the beer community to support LGBTQ+ causes and individuals beyond June.

"We very much appreciate seeing breweries that make Pride beers make donations to both national and local LGBTQ+ organizations that are meaningful to them and educating their followers about the work they do," she says. "But, as many of us have learned over the past few years, it’s very important to support marginalized groups all year, beyond special days, weeks or months."

"There is definitely a level of skepticism within the LGBTQ+ community. We see people throw a rainbow logo up [during Pride], but we need support year-round." —Alex Showerman, Athletic Brewing

It's difficult to track how many Pride-themed beers are released annually, or how many of them are regular seasonal offerings.

One of the earliest craft beers released around Pride Month was Sparkleberry, a 9% abv tripel brewed with raspberries by Bells Brewery in 2013. It was designed for the Kalamazoo Pride festival, in the brewery's hometown.

Sparkleberry was canned and distributed beyond Michigan in 2018, and it remains a seasonal offering. As the beer's reputation has grown, the brewery has sponsored Pride events in other states.

Brooklyn Brewery's Stonewall IPA was released in 2017 as a seasonal beer, and it became a year-round offering in 2019. A portion of the proceeds of the beer go to the Stonewall Inn Gives Back Initiative (SIGBI), the company says. While it didn’t share the exact percentage, it estimates it has donated $150,000 to SIGBI since 2017. This year, it plans to sell the beer in international markets like Brazil, France and Sweden.

Virginia Beer Co.'s Friends of Dorothy, a 7.3% abv IPA, is another Pride-focused beer available throughout the year.

"I believe that we are culturally, societally, gaining more competence in knowing what to look for, what questions to ask to determine if a brewery's intentions are real, if that rainbow logo is backed up 24/7, 12 months of the year with a set of values and actions," says Shepard. "Right now, it can be hard to tell the difference."

This point resonates with Alex Showerman, director of JEDI (justice, equity, diversity and inclusion) and NPO (nonprofit organization) partnerships for Athletic Brewing, a non-alcoholic brand based in Connecticut.

"There is definitely a level of skepticism within the LGBTQ+ community," says Showerman. "We see people throw a rainbow logo up [during Pride], but we need support year-round."

Athletic Brewing says that all profits from Rainbow Wall, a non-alcoholic, blood-orange IPA created in partnership with Olympian Alex Johnson, go to Athlete Ally, a national nonprofit LGBTQ+ athletic advocacy group.

"That was top of mind for us in creating this beer," says Showerman. "How are we doing this in an authentic manner, uplifting queer voices, and how are we extending this beyond Pride."

While Rainbow Wall is a limited-time beer, Showerman says her full-time job is dedicated to breaking down barriers for the underrepresented communities in craft beer and in sports.

Stonewall Inn Pride beer
A Brooklyn Brewery sign hangs above Stonewall Inn in New York City / Getty

Baker suggests craft beer drinkers research breweries to find ones that share their values year-round and in all facets of their business.

"As a consumer, if this support is important to you, you should explore the business to see if that support extends beyond one beer release," she says. "Hopefully, they also have a culture that supports inclusivity internally with their employees and externally with their customers."

Many industry people talk about the importance of diversity and inclusion. It can be difficult to determine if concrete actions are behind the messaging.

"If this is just to get my gay dollars, sometimes it's easy to know, sometimes not," says Shepard. "The onus is on us consumers to try to figure that out. Do you want my gay dollars July through May, or just want me this month because I party a little more than I do the rest of the year?"

To pander to queer consumers one month of the year is short-sighted, he says.

"I want the answers to the longer-term questions because I spend a lot more money the rest of the year than I do in June."

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