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Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Wine Enthusiast

Wine Enthusiast


For More Inclusivity In Wine, Our Language Needs to Change

Posted: 27 Jul 2021 04:30 AM PDT

Christina Pickard, contributing editor at Wine Enthusiast, tasting wine
Christina Pickard, contributing editor at Wine Enthusiast, tasting wine / Photo by Tom Arena

When Tamy Rofe, partner at Brooklyn, New York's Colonia Verde Restaurant and Comparti Catering, was studying for her sommelier certification, there was a lot of emphasis placed on vocabulary.

She remembers being given a wine aroma wheel, for example. If you're unfamiliar, imagine a pie chart divided into slices that represent fragrances or flavors. An industry standard, it's designed using specific terminology to create a systematic language for tasting notes and analysis.

"Everyone's literally speaking the same language," says Rofe. "But…I like the rebellious idea of throwing that away and starting from scratch."

She's not alone. As the wine world evolves to reach new generations and a wider range of people, so does the language used to describe it. Many have begun to break away from shared verbiage.

"I grew up in Chicago, where there is no 'forest floor,'" says Alicia Towns Franken, vice president of Archer Roose and head of mentorship at Wine Unify. "If we want more people to drink wine, we have to include them in the words we use to discuss wine."

This doesn't necessarily mean replacing a term like forest floor with, say, subway platform. It's more about exploring attributes beyond flavor like how a wine makes you feel. Below, get the hang of some different ways to consider wine.

Personality

Get to know a wine as you would a person. Think about the traits or quirks that stand out.

Ask yourself: How would I introduce this wine at a party?

Examples: Rofe may describe a wine as "generous" if it's rich, full-bodied and giving, while she may consider a wine with springy lightness to be "charming."

Pairability

Consider wine a costar to the current menu or in relation to your own personal preferences.

Ask yourself: How does this jive with the flavors on my table right now?

Examples: "When I started out, a fiasco [of Chianti] was the classic pizza wine," says Towns Franken. But you might prefer "a fruity Lambrusco, or… pricy Champagne." The perfect pairing is the one you like best.

Sensory Experience

Our own sense of a wine depends on more than taste or smell. "[The] type of day I've had… who I'm with, even my body temperature," says Towns Franken, can all play a role.

Ask yourself: How does this wine make me feel? Does it remind me of a certain moment

Examples: A glass savored on vacation may recall rest and relaxation or may taste totally different at your kitchen table.

Wine Country’s Best Lakeside Getaways

Posted: 27 Jul 2021 04:00 AM PDT

photo of Lake Chelan
Lake Chelan / Getty

Lazy mornings, afternoon swims and days capped with a glass of local wine enjoyed by the firepit —these are the simple pleasures of a lakeside escape. Here, discover five American lakes that offer outdoor activities aplenty and thriving wine scenes set against sweeping scenery.

Lake Michigan, MI

Towering sand dunes lapped by clear blue tides evoke a scene from a Caribbean island. Yet, Michigan's Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore draws crowds for its similarly crystalline waters and dramatic setting. The state's bustling wine scene is a bonus.

A cool-climate growing region, the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas specialize in Riesling and other white grapes like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer, plus reds like Gamay and Pinot Noir. You can use Traverse City as a base for day trips to the area's multiple wine trails, but groups or families should consider Royal Stag Properties or Lakemore Resort rental homes. They offer lodging near the water or close to vineyards.

beach scene
Lake Michigan / Getty

Lake Chelan, WA

Hop on a floatplane to go wine tasting on Lake Chelan. The 55-mile sliver of water sits about three four hours northeast of Seattle, not far from the base of the North Cascades mountain range near the Canadian border. Northwest Seaplanes collects passengers near Seattle's Sea-Tac Airport for the hour flight to the lake.

Back on the ground, stay at family-owned, family-friendly Campbell's Waterfront Resort and embark via kayak or stand-up paddleboard. The lake's dry, cool climate compares to Canada's Okanagan Valley, and it allows vintners to grow red grapes like Syrah and Cab Franc, as well as whites like Riesling.

Try Vin du Lac for crisp Riesling and with lake views, or check out Karma Vineyards, one of state's few producers of traditional-method sparkling wine. At dusk, grab a bottle of rosé and a few Adirondack chairs at Mellisoni Vineyards to watch the sunset reflect in the water.

Seneca Lake, NY

In northwestern New York, wine growing flourishes around the Finger Lakes, a series of glacial gouges that evoke the swipe of a celestial bear paw. Almost 38 miles long and up to 618 feet deep, vineyard-lined Seneca Lake is the one that holds the most water.

Look for affordable dry Riesling from Ravines Wine Cellars, Osmote, Nathan K. and Forge Cellars; German-style whites at Hermann J. Wiemer and traditional-method sparklers from Red Tail Ridge. After a long day of touring area farms and cellars, seek a soak at Seneca Lake State Park on the lake's northern tip, or the clear waters of Sampson State Park on the east side.

Alternatively, venture two lakes to the west and splash around the pool at The Lake House on Canandaigua. The boutique property also offers canoes, kayaks and more.

sunset over Lake Champlain
Lake Champlain / Getty

Lake Champlain, VT

This lake named for French explorer Samuel de Champlain, who encountered it in 1609, touches the shores of Vermont, New York and Quebec. Retreating glaciers scraped out the surrounding basin, where vineyards and cideries now form the Champlain Valley Wine Trail.

Wineries specialize in cold-hardy hybrid varieties. Lincoln Peak Vineyard led early efforts of fine-wine production from maligned grapes like Marquette and Farnsworth, but the natural wines of La Garagista, about 80 miles south of Burlington, are what really helped put the state on wine lovers' radar. Closer to the water, Iapetus Wine offers experimental skin-contact whites and carbonic macerated reds.

Grab a swim anywhere along the miles of shoreline or at the public beaches of Leddy Beach and North Beach near Burlington.

Lake Ontario, NY

This is the smallest and easternmost of the Great Lakes. A geological formation called the Niagara Escarpment, essentially an eroded cliff, runs east to west along its southwest border and all the way to Illinois via Ontario, Michigan and Wisconsin.

In New York's Niagara Escarpment American Viticultural Area (AVA), warm lake air trapped by the limestone shelf allows winemakers to ripen reds like Pinot Noir and Syrah. Liten Buffel, Arrowhead Spring Vineyards and Freedom Run Winery demonstrate the area's potential. Buffalo sits 30 minutes south of the region's heart, and has plenty of lodging options. Also nearby, a refreshing spray at Niagara Falls would be a nice end to any trip.

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