Wine Enthusiast |
- Blockchain Technology, Fraud Prevention and the Future of Wine
- The Argentine Winemakers with Rock Star Appeal
- From Grilling Gear to Ingredients, Everything You Need for a Spanish Barbecue a La Plancha
| Blockchain Technology, Fraud Prevention and the Future of Wine Posted: 20 May 2021 05:00 AM PDT  Imagine if the wine business could digitally eliminate fraud. Or if winemakers could geolocate precisely when and where their wines are being enjoyed, or whether bottles were tainted or tampered with during shipment? These are some of the transformative possibilities of technologies like blockchain, says Jeffrey Grosset, founder/owner of Grosset Wines in Clare Valley, Australia. In its simplest definition, blockchain is a digital ledger of transactions. When a transaction occurs, a record of it is added to every participant's ledger, or block in the chain, across a network of computer systems. This decentralized form of recordkeeping makes it difficult for individual parties to manipulate the results. Grosset would like to bring this technology to the wine industry. He's the co-founder of Entrust/Enseal, a company that pairs proprietary software to hardware.  Entrust, the software, geolocates and time stamps the "birth" of a product on a smartphone. For wine, that's where the fruit was grown and when it was harvested. When the wine is bottled, that information transfers electronically to Enseal's tag-tamper near-field communication (NFC) chip. Enseal also records when the bottle is opened. A quick scan of the cap with a smartphone can tell a distributor, retailer or consumer if their bottle has been tampered. Grosset implemented its use at Grosset Wines by geolocating fruit harvested earlier this year. "The key to our system is that Enseal assures the provenance, authenticity and the integrity of every bottle of wine," he says. "That means it identifies and confirms where the bottle is from, exactly when it was harvested and bottled, and importantly, that that particular bottle has not been opened." Enseal has been tested on screwcaps, but it's expected to be compatible with other closures. Why go to such lengths to trace a bottle of wine? Blockchain technology could help producers prevent fraud. According to a recent IBM study, 71% of consumers indicate traceability is important and are willing to pay a premium for brands that provide it. Grosset says wine fraud is a massive issue. "Some say 20% of premium wine in some markets is fake," he says. "Others say 50%. The numbers matter less than the fact that reputations can be damaged.” Other applications can include quality control during production and distribution. Recently, software company eProvenance launched VinAssure, a network designed to resolve wine supply chain issues using IBM blockchain technology and Hyperledger Fabric. The goal is to "assure wines reach the consumer tasting as the winemaker intended," says Louise Domenitz, the company's marketing director.
According to Domenitz, VinAssure connects supply chain members through a "permissioned, permanent and shared record of data." It stores information about wine, and it track bottles as they move through distribution. Producers can share a wealth of information with their consumers. They could provide notes on the vintage or harvest, as well as details on the wine's progress through distribution channels. The technology can detail who handles the wine during transport and storage, and what temperature conditions that the bottle encountered. Registering wine in the blockchain enhances a producer's anti-counterfeit systems, which Domenitz says results in "reducing fakes in the market and building brand value."  A U.S. wine company that uses VinAssure is Chateau Ste. Michelle. Peter Click, the winery's vice president of international sales, says it adopted the technology to get wines to consumers in optimal condition. "We currently use blockchain to measure temperature over time in our export shipments around the world," says Click. "This technology provides us an accurate picture of temperature inside our containers, from the moment they depart our warehouses until they are opened at the final destination." With VinAssure, as wines move through distribution, temperature data is stored in the blockchain along with an eProvenance Score from 0-100. The number indicates if wine quality was preserved or damaged. Not everyone is on board. Smaller wineries, which often have smaller budgets, staffs and more limited distribution, must prioritize other concerns, says Rick Rainey of Forge Cellars in the Finger Lakes. "At this moment, for a small winery like us trying to break into the mainstream with dry aromatic white wine, all of our efforts in both time and money are squarely placed on spreading the gospel of the FLX," he says. For bigger producers and luxury brands, counterfeit prevention and quality control are key benefits of blockchain. They help build consumer trust. Robin Grumman-Vogt, CEO of eProvenance, believes consumers expect transparency. "While the wine world has historically been opaque due to a complex supply chain, consumers are increasingly looking for verifiable provenance and assurance that the wines they purchase meet their expectations," says Grumman-Vogt. "From concerns about counterfeit bottles to organic certification to proper handling during transport, consumers are looking for information they can trust." |
| The Argentine Winemakers with Rock Star Appeal Posted: 20 May 2021 04:36 AM PDT  Five spirited Argentine winemakers and winery owners put their personalities into their bottlings to help establish the 21st century as the country's Golden Era for wine. As you will learn, grapes and wine have been in their blood for decades, in most cases since childhood. Here are their stories.  Karim MussiWine Labels: Altocedro, Abras, AlandesPrincipal Zones: La Consulta (Uco Valley), Maipù (Mendoza), Cafayate (Salta) The Mendoza native behind Altocedro and several other wine labels is, by all accounts, a happy guy who loves what he does. He's always smiling as he works for the greater good of Argentinean wine. "I am taken by all expressions of beauty, including art, literature, music and film, but especially music," says Mussi, as he prepares for the 2021 harvest. "Wine allows me to provide beauty and happiness to a lot of people around the world." Mussi is the fourth-generation descendant of Lebanese Christian immigrants to Argentina. Both his grandfather, who planted vineyards in Mendoza decades ago, and his late father, a businessman named Mario, were involved in wine. But it was Mussi, who calls himself the "black sheep" of the family, who pursued a career as a winemaker and winery owner under Mario's mentorship. In 1998, at age 24, Mussi spearheaded the launch of Altocedro in the La Consulta subzone of the Uco Valley. Named for the cedar, Lebanon's national tree, as well as the 27 tall cedars that surround the winery, Altocedro has come into its own over the past decade or so. Its signature reserve-level Malbec is a perennial standout that delivers the depth and power that a top-flight Malbec should pack, along with the precision and crispness that have come to define Uco Valley reds at their best. "I try to make authentic wines reflective of a place," he says. "My three pillars of winemaking are elegance, balance and freshness. I'm a huge fan of Bordeaux, but really my models are any and all producers who are genuine and make great wines that aren't trendy."  Estela PerinettiWine Label: Las EstelasPrincipal Zones: Tupungato (Uco Valley) In 1940, Perinetti's grandfather longed to reconnect with his family's wine roots in Piedmont, Italy. So he bought land in the high reaches of Tupungato, the northernmost section of Mendoza's Uco Valley. His plan was to grow and bottle Sémillon. Years later, Estela's father, Dr. Hector Perinetti, planted Malbec and other red grapes in this vineyard that sits more than 4,200 feet above sea level. Today, some 80 years after Finca Mangato was first planted, Estela Perinetti uses her family's vineyard for her fledgling line of wines, Las Estelas. It's named after herself, her mother, Maria Estela Armando, and her grandmother, Fortunata Stella. With only a couple of vintages now in distribution, Las Estelas is a name to watch. That's because of Perinetti's winemaking chops, which include more than 20 years of work for the renowned Catena family projects Escorihuela, Bodegas Caro and until two years ago, La Posta and Luca, both owned and operated by Laura Catena. "I came to the wine world through heritage, but also through love," she says. "The culture and complexities of wine caught me early on. Why I decided to start Las Estelas is simple. Having worked many terroirs around the world, and having made wines from innumerable vineyards throughout Mendoza, it was time to dedicate myself to my own vineyard in my preferred terroir, that of El Peral (the 'pear orchard') in Tupungato." Having tasted and reviewed only the inaugural 2016 Grand Vin, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, and the 2017 Finca Mangato Malbec, it's clear that Perinetti's wines feature the tension and lightly herbal notes that stem from high-elevation vines planted on stony alluvial soils. Hers are big-boned Uco Valley reds, but with a naturally wild touch. "I have great respect for the terroir in Tupungato," says Perinetti. "My wines are classical in style, but with a clear imprint of where they come from."  Juan Pablo MicheliniWine Labels: Zorzal, Altar Uco, SuperUcoPrincipal Zones: Gualtallary (Uco Valley), Los Chacayes (Uco Valley) Most wine lovers would describe the quintessential Argentinean wine as follows: a burly Malbec made to go with red meat. Fair enough, but that's not the type of wine that Michelini seeks to make. To the contrary, Michelini's wines generally emphasize freshness and finesse, often with lower alcohol levels, pronounced acidity and imperceptible oak. "I've been mostly influenced by European wines, France above all," says Michelini, who goes by the nickname "Juampi." "It is a style that promotes elegance without the excesses we often see here, particularly overripe grapes, overextraction and overoaking." Michelini is not beholden to Malbec alone. Some of his best wines, always with catchy names and funky artistic labels, are made from Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir grown in the rocky high-elevation vineyards of Gualtallary in Tupungato. They're fermented and aged in cement eggs. From Mendoza, Michelini began his career at Doña Paula, where he worked alongside his brother, Matías. In 2004, after three years there and having participated in a harvest at St. Francis in Sonoma, California, Michelini became Doña Paula's chief winemaker. In 2007, Michelini, along with brothers Matías and Gerardo, started Zorzal Wines, which focuses exclusively on wines from Tupungato in the Uco Valley, at an elevation of 4,500 feet. He's a partner and head winemaker in the project. Then in 2010, Michelini began work on what he calls the "most significant project" in his life: SuperUco, a 100% biodynamic venture that he co-owns with Matías, Gerardo and a third brother, Gabriel. SuperUco focuses on generous yet racy Malbecs from prime sites in Gualtallary, Los Chacayes (where the winery is located) and Paraje Altamira. Four years later, Michelini started Altar Uco with longtime friend Daniel Kokogian. Michelini says the label is fueled entirely by winemaking "freedom," something he insists is essential to create "one-of-a-kind, unrivalled wines with a distinct identity."  Patricia OrtizWine Labels: Tapiz, Zolo, WapisaPrincipal Zones: San Pablo (Uco Valley), Agrelo (Mendoza), Río Negro (Patagonia) Unlike most Argentine wine producers, Ortiz, president of the Fincas Patagónicas group, was not born into the business. From Buenos Aires, she used to be a nephrologist, a doctor who focuses on kidney function. Ortiz then decided to convert a passion for wine into a completely new career as a winery owner. Her three wineries, Tapiz, Zolo and Wapisa, can be counted on for quality and value. "I came to this business as a consumer," says Ortiz. "After many trips to the United States and Europe, my husband and I decided to fully explore Mendoza. It was love at first sight, and we bought our first vineyard in Tupungato [in the early 2000s]." Next up? Going from grape growers to winery owners. To make this leap, Ortiz acquired an ailing Tapiz winery from Kendall-Jackson in 2003. "This is when things changed from a hobby to something real," she says. "I had to go back to school to study management because being a doctor offered no help in this business." Today, Bodega Tapiz stands as the group's signature label and focuses on wines from the high-elevation San Pablo section of Tunuyán in the Uco Valley. Meanwhile, Zolo is a more traditional value line that relies on grapes grown in Mendoza's warmer Agrelo subzone. The newest winery in Ortiz's group is Wapisa, founded seven years ago in Patagonia, just 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean along the banks of the Río Negro. Wapisa, which means "whale" in an indigenous language, puts out textbook Patagonian wines with energy, a reflection of the region's cool and windy terroir. Look for the upcoming release of 1,500 magnums of a Malbec blend currently aging under the Atlantic. "I am anxious to see whether salty sea water can accelerate the aging process," says Ortiz. "If these magnums can fully age in seven months instead of seven years, it will transform the way Wapisa makes wine."  Marcelo PelleritiWine Labels: Monteviejo, Marcelo Pelleriti WinesPrincipal Zones: Vista Flores (Uco Valley) Winemakers are frequently referred to as rock stars, meaning they possess flair, maybe the right style of hair and, most importantly, a dedicated following that adores their wines. Pelleriti, winemaking director at Monteviejo, part of the Clos de los Siete group of wineries in Mendoza's Uco Valley, checks all the boxes. He can also shred a guitar, something he's fond of doing when not making full-force Malbecs and other wines for Monteviejo or his namesake wine label, Marcelo Pelleriti Wines. Trained and mentored by Bordeaux enologist and Clos de los Siete founder Michel Rolland, Pelleriti also received guidance from local winemaking legends Pepe Galante (Catena and Salentein) and Mariano di Paola (Rutini). Pelleriti, born and raised in Mendoza, traces his affinity for wine to the days he helped his grandfather make rustic foot-pressed wines called pateros. "I don't come from a wine-industry family," he says. "I'm the first generation to go all in on wine." Now with two decades under his belt at Monteviejo, owned by the Bordeaux-based Péré Vergé family, Pelleriti specializes in richly extracted Malbecs with notable oak and the ability to age. If you're familiar with the so-called "Rolland style," of ripe, well-oaked reds, Pelleriti's wines fit the mold. "I like making wines to hold on to," he says. "A great wine is like history in a bottle. It is something that can be enjoyed by our children and grandchildren, which ties them back to their grandparents." Pelleriti began Wine Rock in 2010. The early April, harvest-season music festival started as a chance for he and his music-loving friends to gather, play some chords and drink lots of vino. Now in its 11th year, the event spans several days and features multiple bands. |
| From Grilling Gear to Ingredients, Everything You Need for a Spanish Barbecue a La Plancha Posted: 20 May 2021 04:00 AM PDT  Spanish for "on the griddle," cooking a la plancha is a great technique for searing meat, fish or vegetables. Using a carbon steel or cast iron plancha on a grill or stovetop, this style of cooking results in a crisp exterior and juicy interior without being overly complicated. Many large grills or outdoor kitchen setups include a steel or iron flat top, but a simple cast iron griddle placed atop your grill or two stove burners will do the trick. Bring the plancha to temperature over medium-high flame. Once the griddle begins to smoke, drizzle or squirt a thin layer of olive oil on the metal, add your ingredients using long tongs and sprinkle coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. The gear and food you’ll need for a successful a la plancha Rocky Mountain Cookware High Handle GriddleThis heavy gauge carbon steel griddle is large enough for a couple of steaks but small enough to fit on any grill or regular home cooktop. The stainless wire handles offer easy placement and lift off to switch back to regular grilling. $57 Amazon Lodge Cast Iron Chef Collection Reversible Grill/GriddleFrom the leading name in cast iron cookware, Lodge's griddle fits perfectly over two stovetop burners, and it works on induction cooktops as well. It can also be used on the grill or directly on a campfire, and the built-in drip tray catches runny grease or marinade. $50 Amazon  Twin Eagles Built-In Gas Teppanyaki GriddleYou will be the envy of the neighborhood with the addition of this large cooktop to your outdoor kitchen setup. It has 750 square inches of high powered cooking surface with two separately controlled gas burners and a grease trough for easy cleanup. $3,699 Aventuron Grill Hogs 16-inch Barbecue TongsLong enough to keep your hands away from the heat but strong enough for your thickest cuts, these wood-handled tongs are as comfortable to hold as they are stylish. The tong's lock also functions as a hook, so you can keep them close by and neat when not in use. $13 Amazon Weber Original Wide SpatulaThe wide head is equally perfect for a large steak or a lot of small shishito peppers or calamari rings. The long handle means your hand stay cool with even the hottest flame, and the angled neck gets over the grill edge easily. $21 Amazon SteakUse well marbled cuts such as boneless ribeye or New York strip that are between 1 and 1½ inches in thickness. Cook between six to eight minutes total depending on thickness and desired doneness, turning once. Pair it: Pour a Crianza or Reserva Tempranillo from Rioja, Ribera del Duero or Toro. $ Varies Amazon ShrimpSeek out extra-large, shell-on shrimp such as tiger prawns or langostinos. Cook two to three minutes per side. Serve with lemon wedges and lots of napkins. Pair it: Albariño from Rias Baixas is the natural choice for hot shrimp fresh off the griddle. $ Varies Amazon CalamariHave the calamari cleaned at the fish market. Small calamari—under 8 inches in length—can be cooked whole. Anything larger is best sliced into rings. Whole calamari will cook in 3 to 5 minutes, rings no more than three. Serve with lemon halves. Pair it: Pick up a bottle or two of Godello from Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra or Bierzo. $ Varies Wild Fork PeppersYou can cook Anaheim peppers, red bell peppers, or shishito peppers. If using red bells, look for smaller ones. For Anaheim or bell peppers, cut off top and remove seeds; cook shishitos intact. Cook until skin begins to blister and turn black. Time will vary depending on pepper size and thickness. Pair It: A juicy Garnacha from Navarra or Priorat is ideal with blistered peppers. $ Varies Amazon |
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