Wine Enthusiast |
- The Making of 100-Point Wines: Two California Chardonnays from an Iconic Winemaker
- 14 White Wines From an Italian Region Known for Rich Reds
- Wine Enthusiast Podcast: The Current State of American Lagers
| The Making of 100-Point Wines: Two California Chardonnays from an Iconic Winemaker Posted: 07 Jul 2021 04:35 AM PDT  If you believe that excellence takes time, then these two 2018 Chardonnays from David Ramey exhibit a winemaker for whom a philosophy of "slow and steady wins the race" has always been true. No flash, no shortcuts, but an accumulation of learned knowledge and experience that come to life in the bottle. Forty years ago, Ramey committed to learn how to make the great wines of the world. His focus was on Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. He earned a Master of Science in enology at University of California, Davis, where his thesis focused on how aromas evolve. Ramey set his mind to discover how to apply Old World techniques to "California's perfectly ripe grapes." Ramey didn't come from money or have funds from another career. He was never one to pursue bright, shiny things. He's long worked out of a leased industrial space in Healdsburg. As he says, the magic is in the bottle, not in the building. Fellow winemaker Jesse Katz once said, "Ramey is not one to do something just because of tradition, and certainly not one to follow a trend…[he's] not just a brilliant mind in the wine industry. He is a brilliant mind, period."   When Ramey and his wife, Carla, launched Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996, he had already worked in Bordeaux at Château Pétrus, and made wine alongside Zelma Long at Simi Winery in Sonoma County. He worked at Matanzas Creek and Chalk Hill Estate, then helped launch Dominus Estate, where he was given the chance to make a little Chardonnay on the side. He also worked at Rudd Estate in the Napa Valley before he officially and exclusively went solo in 2001.  He has mentored many and led the way to elevate California Chardonnay to its highest levels. Ramey has been a pioneer in the elimination of skin contact and the use of oxidized juice in whites, as well as an advocate for sur lie aging in barrel, whole-cluster pressing and malolactic fermentation, in addition to native yeast fermentation and bottling without filtration. Ramey's 2018s from both the Hyde and Rochioli Vineyards earned 100 points because they show the difficult-to-achieve cohesion between winemaker, grower, vintage, variety and site. All five components reach their greatest heights at the same time. Ramey has worked with the Hyde family of Carneros since 1996. A Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay was the first Ramey wine, which totaled 260 cases that inaugural vintage. The Hyde bottling is made predominantly from old Wente clone Chardonnay grapes with some Robert Young clone, itself a Wente selection, from blocks planted in 1997 and 1999, according to Ramey. High natural acidity, elegance and refined fruit are signatures of the site. In Ramey's hands, beautiful aromas of toasted hazelnut and stone lead to a palate that shows undeniable minerality paired with lasting acidity. It shows freshness and energy throughout, and it will have years to go in the bottle.  Ramey's Rochioli bottling is an equally worthy testament to an outstanding site in the hands of an outstanding producer. It's a relatively new vineyard for Ramey, as the 2018 is just the fourth single-vineyard designate from the legendary Westside Road Russian River Valley vineyard. The coveted Rochioli Vineyard is divided into several sections across 140 planted acres, with Wente, Hanzell and Mt. Eden selections of Chardonnay within its Sweetwater Vineyard, Rachael's Vineyard, South River, Little Hill and River Block. The Rochiolis began to plant Chardonnay soon after Pinot Noir in 1968. Ramey's rows are from the Mid-40 and River blocks, planted in 1989, 1995 and 1998. The wine is a celebration of fresh Meyer lemon and Gravenstein apple woven against an elegant structure and quenching acidity. It allows room for richness, yet never loses its balance nor elegant sense of opulence on the palate. Ultimately, the wines just have that magic quality that can be elusive to define and translate into words. While these wines are perfection, if you love Chardonnay in any form, David Ramey is an essential winemaker to know and appreciate no matter which of his bottlings you manage to score and enjoy. |
| 14 White Wines From an Italian Region Known for Rich Reds Posted: 07 Jul 2021 04:00 AM PDT  Between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, the vineyards of Abruzzo are in a real Goldilocks situation. Warm seaside breezes help temper the brisk mountain air to create conditions that are just right for grape production. Most know the area for red wine production, namely Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. However, beyond that sea of red are some white wine gems that are worth the discovery. Trebbiano and Pecorino are two of the most widely planted white varieties that can be produced in a range of styles, from rich, textural and sometimes oaked to brisk and zesty pours. Amorotti 2018 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo; $35, 93 points. Picture yourself running through a field of chamomile, with the warm summer sun beating down—that's what this smells like. It's heady, inviting and utterly comforting. The medium-bodied palate brings more to the mix, dazzling in flavors of juicy yellow plum and Meyer lemon peel. There's a crunchy mineral vein throughout, but it gains in intensity on the finish alongside a lingering floral note. Jan D'Amore Wines. Editors' Choice. —Alexander Peartree Ciavolich 2018 Fosso Cancelli (Trebbiano d'Abruzzo); $33, 93 points. This rich Trebbiano sees time in both amphora and Slavonian oak, which add depth and earthiness to the tones of chamomile, hay, apricot and red apple peel on the nose. Sultry flavors of chamomile and honeycomb wax blend with ripe orchard-fruit flavors on the medium-bodied palate, with dried field flowers ringing on the close. For all its weight, there's impeccable balance as well, making this an intoxicating sip to savor. Select Estates of Europe Ltd. Editors' Choice. —A.P. Emidio Pepe 2016 Pecorino (Colli Aprutini); $160, 93 points. This creamy yet balanced white offers dense tones of yellow apple, pear, jasmine and chamomile. The palate is like drinking pear-scented white tea, with a gently gripping texture wrapping around all the fruit and floral tones. It ends taut and lingers on a yellow-plum skin tone. Polaner Selection. —A.P. Masciarelli 2018 Marina Cvetic Riserva (Trebbiano d'Abruzzo); $50, 93 points. Vibrant aromas of lemon zest and yellow apple peel are framed in accents of toast and honey on the nose. Fermented in barrel and aged for 12 months in new French oak, it is creamy, rounded and unctuous on the palate yet driven by tightly coiled citrus, apple and melon flavors all wrapped in a warm, toasty embrace. The energy and lift is substantial, with a brûléed lemon note lingering long on the finish. Enjoyable now, this would hold well through 2025. Vintus LLC. —A.P. Valentini 2015 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo; $160, 93 points. This iconic Abruzzo bottling doesn't disappoint, offering dense aromas of chamomile, lemon peel, melon rind and white plum on the nose. On the palate, this is all about the texture, which is like a memory foam pillow that both engulfs yet feels supportive. Honed flavors of rich melon, citrus and orchard fruit meld with chamomile and a gentle crushed stone element, yielding a wine that skirts the line between ripeness and tension. It ends taut and lifted, indicating that it will hold well a bit longer in the cellar. Drink through 2025 at least. Jan D'Amore Wines. —A.P. Nicodemi 2018 Notàri Superiore (Trebbiano d'Abruzzo); $18, 92 points. From a hilltop site on the winery's estate in the Teramo hills, this white offers defined aromas of yellow plum, lemon peel, chamomile and thyme. It holds richness and tension in equal measure, deftly balancing a waxy texture between flavors of ripe yellow fruit and taut citrus. The floral and herb notes linger long on the finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Editors' Choice. —A.P. Tenuta Terraviva 2019 'Ekwo Pecorino (Abruzzo); $24, 91 points. After some swirling in the glass, this opens up to reveal coiled aromas of lemon rind, melon, chamomile and crushed stone on the nose. There's impeccable balance to the medium-bodied palate, where a gentle white-tea-like texture supports flavors of dried yellow flowers, cantaloupe and lemon. Vinea, Inc. —A.P. Torre dei Beati 2019 Giocheremo con i Fiori Pecorino (Abruzzo); $24, 91 points. Gentle, rounded aromas of cantaloupe, lemon and a bevy of field flowers waft from the glass. The medium-bodied palate brings together juicy shots of citrus and melon against a mildly waxy texture. There's ample presence and lift to it all, making this a delightful entry point to the Pecorino variety. Artisan Wines, Inc. —A.P. Torre Zambra 2019 Piana Marina Organic (Trebbiano d'Abruzzo); $40, 91 points. The nose of this white is cohesive yet delicate, with a pretty chamomile aroma at the fore backed by lemon peel and yellow plum. The medium-bodied palate boasts a mix of ripe yellow fruit alongside a dusting of fennel pollen and field flowers. There's impeccable balance to it all, with taut acidity riding firmly in the background. Tri-Vin Imports. —A.P. Cantina Tollo 2020 Pecorino (Terre di Chieti); $25, 90 points. Zesty aromas of pomelo, lemon and melon meet a chamomile accent on the nose of this white. It's rounded and ripe in feel on the medium-bodied palate, with coiled fruit flavors that show great lift and longevity. Enotec Imports, Inc. —A.P. Il Feuduccio Di S. Maria D'Orni 2019 Pecorino (Colline Teatine); $21, 90 points. Bright aromas of lemon and melon rind blend with struck flint and dried chamomile on the nose. There's a pleasing interplay of texture and tension on the medium-bodied palate, where a creamy melon flavor is held in check by an elongated citrus-laden backbone. Accents of crushed stone and flowers linger on the finish. Empson USA Ltd. —A.P. Torre Raone 2019 Raone Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi); $20, 90 points. Ample intensity of citrus and mixed field flowers starts off this zesty Pecorino. The medium-bodied palate is studded with chamomile and lemon rind, with a perfumed quality echoing from start to finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.P. We Recommend: Umani Ronchi 2019 Vellodoro Pecorino (Terre di Chieti); $17, 89 points. An explosion of creamed pear and pomelo blends with a hint of tropical fruit on the nose of this easy-to-like white. It's full in feel, with a broad, oily texture that's held in check by a gentle lemony zing. It ends creamy but quickly on the finish. Still, this is quite enjoyable for its fruit intensity, texture and immediate appeal. Vineyard Brands. —A.P. Talamonti 2020 Trebì (Trebbiano d'Abruzzo); $13, 88 points. Delicate aromas of citrus, pome fruit and candied blossoms grace the nose of this light-bodied white. It's zesty and brisk on the palate, with a hint of yellow plum rounding things out. This is an easy-to-sip Trebbiano at a value price. Panebianco. Best Buy. —A.P. |
| Wine Enthusiast Podcast: The Current State of American Lagers Posted: 07 Jul 2021 03:35 AM PDT  Though often associated with big, international brewing companies, lagers are having a craft moment. Consumers are looking for beers that can showcase new hops, and clean lagers are a perfect vessel. But there are also non-craft drinkers that want crisp, refreshing beers. With nearly 9,000 breweries now in the U.S., more options from this category are available than ever before, and many are brewed locally. To tap into this trend, Beer Editor John Holl speaks with Todd DiMatteo, owner and brewer of Good Word Brewing & Public House in Georgia, and Khristopher Johnson, founding brewer and co-owner of Green Bench Brewery in Florida, about the current state of American craft lagers, and where to turn for your next delicious sip. From familiar styles with new-age hops to collaborations that revive forgotten substyles, there sure is a lot of love for lagers these days. So grab a pint and enjoy the lager lowdown. Be sure to check out our Beer Buying Guide at winemag.com/ratings for dozens of recent ratings and reviews of lagers from near and far. Embrace the new wave of lager greatness with this cheat sheet to 25 of our favorite craft lagers to drink right now, and read more about our first two 100-point beers, both of which are lagers. |
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