Wine Enthusiast

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• Paso Robles’ White Wines Defy Expectations
• What Does ‘Creamy’ Mean in Wine?
• Three LGBTQ+ Wine Pros Making a More Inclusive Industry
• Grilled Yellow Peach Salad with Seared Goat Cheese, Arugula and Prosciutto

Paso Robles’ White Wines Defy Expectations Posted: 01 Jun 2021 05:00 AM PDT Photo by Heami Lee Paso Robles is experiencing a refreshing renaissance of crisp and clean whites.   At Tablas Creek Vineyard, a national conduit to Rhône grapes, the prominence of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne is no surprise. Yet, lesser-known Rhône varieties like Picpoul Blanc and Clairette Blanche are also on an exciting rise. Then there are bottlings of Albariño, Vermentino, Chenin Blanc and Ugni Blanc that zip with freshness and intrigue with rocky minerality.   These wines prove that Paso Robles isn't just about big reds anymore.   "Let's be fair," says Neil Collins, winemaker for Tablas Creek since its inception in 1998. "A summer evening in Paso Robles lends itself to a crisp, complex white every bit as much as it does a massive red."   Rhône Roots  For years, Viognier was the go-to white Rhône grape across California, but over the last decade, Grenache Blanc has emerged as brighter, fresher and easier to master.   In 2017, Stanley Barrios, proprietor and winemaker of Top Winery, opted for the grape to star in his Axis bottling, a lower-alcohol, zesty contrast to his richer, Roussanne-heavy Poise bottling.    "Flaunting both restraint and power in a white wine?" he asks. "Now, that's exciting."  One of the first "new" white Rhônes to turn heads was Picpoul Blanc, which Halter Ranch uses in both still and sparkling wines by itself and in blends.   "With so many Rhône white varieties lacking in acid, Picpoul Blanc is the key to balanced blending," says Winemaker Kevin Sass, who believes it's the "most underutilized" white Rhône in Paso Robles.    Clairette Blanche is an even newer variety to the scene. Since 2017, McPrice Myers has used Paper Street Vineyard grapes as a single-varietal expression, in his Beautiful Earth white blend as well as coferments for red wines with Syrah and Mourvèdre.   "It's an extremely versatile grape," he says.    Sometimes, these varieties work best as a team, as in Law Estate's Soph, a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Clairette Blanche, made since 2015.   “Flaunting both restraint and power in a white wine? Now, that’s exciting.” — Stanley Barrios, proprietor and winemaker, Top Winery "It is bold, powerful and concentrated enough for most 'I only drink red wine' drinkers to enjoy, but has a tremendous amount of finesse and freshness to make it crisp and refreshing," says Law Winemaker Philipp Pfunder. "These whites break the stereotype and shine brightly from beneath their big, bold red siblings."   TRY  Halter Ranch 2016 Libelle Sparkling Picpoul Blanc (Adelaida District); $60, 93 points. One of the only domestic sparkling Picpoul Blancs, this bottling starts with aromas of orange rind, wet clay and the slightest hint of petrol. It’s laser sharp, crisp and racy on the palate, offering flavors of Asian pear, orange blossom and a hint of jasmine. Editors' Choice.   Top 2018 Axis Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles); $48, 93 points. One of the more texturally driven white wines coming out of Paso Robles, this bottling by Stanley Barrios starts with a shy and subtle nose of yucca flower and honeysuckle. The tightly woven, grippy palate offers grapefruit peel and Meyer lemon zest, leading into a long, zesty finish. Editors' Choice.    Law 2019 Soph White (Paso Robles); $78, 92 points. Richness and minerality are expertly balanced in this blend of 48% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne and 12% Clairette Blanche, starting on the nose, where white melon, light banana and creamy cherimoya meet with a chalky tone. The palate is creamy as well, with peach and mango, but it’s the wet, chiseled stone flavor that makes the wine most compelling. Tablas Creek 2019 Patelin de Tablas Blanc (Paso Robles); $45, 92 points. Light lemon-peel, lychee, honeysuckle and apple aromas show on the nose of this blend of 35% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne, 19% Viognier, 14% Marsanne and 7% Clairette Blanche. The palate intrigue with citrus flavors, from mandarin pith to makrut lime, with a bright lemongrass tone carrying throughout the tightly woven texture. ONX 2019 L'Autre Femme White (Paso Robles); $42, 90 points. Rounded aromas of bubblegum, banana and plumeria are cut by slightly sour orange on the nose of this blend of 52% Roussanne, 32% Viognier and 16% Grenache Blanc. There’s compelling tension on the palate, with a flash of lemon zest, but the core flavors are reminiscent of banana pudding. Photo by Heami Lee Racy Albariño  Bodega de Edgar's lineup of wines nods toward Spain, so Albariño fit snugly into the portfolio when Edgar Torres added it in 2009. The grape can be vinified in rich or racy styles, but his bone-dry 2019 bottling, loaded with chalk and grapefruit pith, is an ideal style.   He's proudly embraced the shift toward more restraint.   "Instead of using Rhône varietals that have been harvested too late, we have shifted towards crisp whites with a higher acidity," he says. "The consumer continues to demand this style of vibrant whites."  These Albariños hang onto that energy quite well, as seen in the Project España bottling by Derby Wine Estates. After almost four years in the bottle, the 2017 release bursts with lime and guava peel, and retains a firm grip on the sip.   "I've found the textural component of the wines can be enhanced with a light crushing, followed by a few hours of skin contact prior to pressing," says Winemaker Sean Geoghegan. "The resulting wine is very rich in phenolic compounds from the skins and, paired with the low pH from the acidity, creates a white wine with the ability to improve with age."  TRY   Derby 2017 Project España Albariño (Paso Robles); $26, 93 points. Both fresh and full on the nose, this zesty bottling offers lime and guava-peel aromas on the nose, as well as chopped lemongrass and gardenia. There’s a very firm grip on the sip, where wet stone and chalk flavors play friendly with the lime-balm flavors. This is a strong showing for this variety in this region. Editors' Choice.  Donati Family Vineyard 2019 Family Reserve Albariño (Paso Robles); $30, 91 points. Broad aromas of poached peach, gardenia, apple blossom and lime bubblegum come through on the broad nose of this bottling. It tightens up on the palate, focusing on Meyer lemon peel and pith, with golden-apple and baking-spice flavors arising by the finish. Editors' Choice.  Expressive Chenin Blanc  "In my early years, the region's whites were looked down upon," says veteran vintner Neil Collins of Tablas Creek. He remembers those early Chardonnays as quite flabby. He was aiming for a Chard alternative when he first attempted Chenin Blanc from the Old Bailey Vineyard (planted in 1969). That was almost 30 years ago, when he was a winemaker for Adelaida Cellars.   "We absolutely destroyed it with American oak," says Collins. "But I never forgot the vineyard and its fruit."   He got back to those vines for his own brand, Lone Madrone, in 2010. The vineyard's limestone soils allowed him to make Chenin Blanc in the style of the Loire Valley, without much, if any, oak.   "Chenin is a very appropriate grape to express the terroir of our zone," he says.  Sherman Thacher, of Thacher Winery, makes a mineral-laced, acid-driven bottling each year. He uses grapes from the very warm Shell Creek Vineyard, in the southeastern Paso Highlands district.   Planted in 1972, the site's age and own-rooted vines, and the region's huge day-night temperature swings, are what Thacher credits for the resulting wine style.   "Older plants have had a chance to embrace their environment and, being own-rooted, they have a direct connection with the marine limestone sitting just beneath the top coat of alluvium," he says.    TRY  Thacher 2019 Own-Rooted Shell Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc (Paso Robles Highlands District); $32, 92 points. Crisp aromas of creamy pear, chiseled granite and a hint of pineapple show on the nose of this bottling from a vineyard in eastern Paso Robles. The palate is lively and florally aromatic without being overwhelming, offering restrained tuberose and plumeria flavors while clinging to a taut frame. Vivacious Vermentino  A sneaky toss of Vermentino sticks by a wise nurseryman into a shipment of vines bound for Tablas Creek in the mid-1990s unleashed this non-Rhône grape on the Rhône-focused vineyard. Everyone's been rejoicing since.   More commonly found in places like Corsica, Liguria and Sardinia, and also known as Rolle, the grape delivers strongly rocky and refreshing citrus flavors with stunning regularity.  Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery, in Paso's eastern hills, planted some Vermentino in the Huerhuero Vineyard, a cool, windy spot. The winery began to make a varietal bottling in 2011.     "While we do a fruit-forward Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, I find the Vermentino to be one of our most versatile, food-friendly white wines," says Winemaker Kevin Willenborg. He likes to pair it with light dishes like pasta, shellfish and chicken, as well as spicy meals. "What really sets it apart for me is this rich weight and smooth, long finish in the mouth without being cloying, sweet or oaky."   He's happy that Paso Robles is finally getting recognized for its white wines.   "With the long growing season and cool maritime-influenced nights, we can get these flavorful crisp whites—you just need to work with the vine and canopy a little," he says. "Sooner or later, you find yourself in need of a good white."  TRY Tablas Creek 2019 Vermentino (Adelaida District); $27, 94 points. Proprietor Jason Haas continually reveals the magic potential of this grape for a warmer weather region like Paso Robles. In this vintage, crisp and light aromas of pear, lemon and lily lead into a fascinating palate of nectarine, honeysuckle and ripe melon, all wrapped in an immensely chalky structure. Editors' Choice.  Vina Robles 2019 Huerhuero Vineyard Vermentino (Paso Robles); $20, 92 points. Very light in the glass, this bottling is incredibly aromatic in all the right ways, offering just enough hints of jasmine, plumeria and coconut oil as well as a brisk line of citrus peel. The palate is vibrant with acidity and scintillating texture, which balance the tropical tones of tuberose and plumeria extract. Editors' Choice. Ugni Blanc Is One to Watch  The biggest surprise grape here is Ugni Blanc, also known as Trebbiano, which Ryan Pease of Paix Sur Terre turns into perhaps the region's best white wine of each vintage. Inspired by Tablas Creek's Vermentino, Pease started working with Ugni Blanc in 2013. He planted another 1.5 acres in 2020 and remains the only known producer of the grape in the region. "It has become our most sought after wine," says Pease.  Paix Sur Terre 2020 Maison Mason Vineyard Ugni Blanc (Paso Robles Willow Creek District); $32, 94 points. Very lean aromas of lime and wet cement pick up warmer tones of apple, honeysuckle and coconut flesh on the nose of this bottling. There is tremendous grip to the sip, where orange- and lime-pith textures and flavors meet with lemongrass as the wine clings to every edge of the palate.

What Does ‘Creamy’ Mean in Wine? Posted: 01 Jun 2021 04:30 AM PDT Illustration by Alissa Nassner The term "creamy" crops up in a lot of wine tastings. Primarily a reference to texture, it can tell you a lot about how and where a wine was made, whether you're sipping crisp bubbles or a rich, lush Chardonnay. Dan Amatuzzi, senior beverage director at Eataly, says creamy wines generally have "a round, soft and buttery or dairy-like texture. This characteristic comes from one of two places: either aging in oak barrels, which imparts vanilla, coconut, and buttery and velvety flavors; or from a more technical process called malolactic fermentation." Malolactic fermentation is the process where malic acid is converted to lactic acid. Amatuzzi compares it to starting with the sharp bite of a Granny Smith apple, and ending with something smooth and round like whole-fat milk or cream. These sorts of wines can elicit visceral responses. "To me, creamy is a feeling in the mouth after you taste a wine," says Tanisha Townsend, wine educator and creator of Girl Meets Glass. "Think dairy, like actual cream or butter on the palate." Chardonnays from the south of Burgundy are often described this way, says Townsend, as are some Viogniers and Sémillons. Some Americans associate the term with Napa Chardonnays that get their big, buttery flavor profiles from malolactic fermentation. The term takes on different connotations with sparkling wines. "In still wines, it’s more of a mouthfeel and not necessarily a taste, whereas in sparkling wines, it can come from the taste of the actual yeast that the wine was aged with," says Townsend. May Matta-Aliah, an educational ambassador for Franciacorta, says creamy notes often correlate to quality sparkling wines. Top-shelf sparklers have fine, delicate bubbles, as opposed to large, aggressive ones. "You can only achieve that 'creaminess' in a sparkling wine if that wine has been allowed to develop its effervescence over an extended period of time and under cool cellar conditions during its second fermentation," says Matta-Aliah. Traditional-method sparkling wines age a minimum of two years on their lees, or dead yeast cells. "As the lees break down, they release certain compounds into the fermented wine," says Matta-Aliah. "This interaction creates both a complexity in aroma and flavor compounds as well as enhancing the weight and texture of the wine." While the results might not be as dairy-like as in still wines, the flavors associated with lees aging are also rich. "This exposure, usually over the course of years, imbues creamy notes and flavors often expressed in the form of freshly baked bread, croissants, brioche, confectionary and so on," says Amatuzzi.

Three LGBTQ+ Wine Pros Making a More Inclusive Industry Posted: 01 Jun 2021 04:00 AM PDT Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery / Photo by Will Bucquoy During June, a variety of wine and beverage brands launch campaigns or products wrapped in rainbows to support LGBTQ+ Pride celebrations around the globe. But LGBTQ+ folks who work in wine carve out accepting spaces and open doors all year long. Read on to get to know three LGBTQ+ members of the wine community who help to create a more inclusive industry from different segments of the wine world. Theresa Heredia Winemaker, Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery A lesbian woman, Heredia has long offered support to programs within the LGBTQ+ community, both on her own and in conjunction with California's Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. One of the most notable efforts has been their joint involvement with the Human Rights Campaign (HRC), one of America's leading LGBTQ+ civil rights organizations. While the winery has contributed wine and funds to HRC over the years, Heredia has conducted tasting and educational seminars, and has spoken at events held by the group. Will Ferguson, wine writer and influencer / Photo by Jonna Michelle Will Ferguson Wine writer/influencer, Queerwino Tackling diversity issues, discrimination and wine tasting with equal enthusiasm on their Instagram feed, @Queerwino, Ferguson strives to make both the virtual and actual wine world a safe space for LGBTQ+ individuals. Ferguson, who's genderqueer, holds a Level II certification from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) and is training to become a buyer at Locavino, a wine bar and shop in Silver Spring, Maryland. During Pride Month, LGBTQ+ wine professionals become the focus of Queerwino's social platforms. Gary Saperstein, owner of Out in the Vineyard / Photo by Kingsly Hurley Gary Saperstein Owner, Out in the Vineyard A wine country event and tour company in Sonoma County, California, Out in the Vineyard provides private itineraries, group tours and virtual events to LGBTQ+ wine lovers. But while Saperstein arranges these experiences exclusively for guests, he isn't focused solely on benefitting these individuals. In the past decade, the business has raised $400,000 for the Face to Face Sonoma County AIDS Network and lent additional support and/or funds to the San Francisco Gay Men's Chorus, Outfest, San Francisco AIDS Foundation and more.

Grilled Yellow Peach Salad with Seared Goat Cheese, Arugula and Prosciutto Posted: 01 Jun 2021 03:00 AM PDT Photo by Jenny Huang/ Food Styling by Michelle Gatton / Prop Styling by Nicole Louie Courtesy Brian Collins, owner/chef, Ember, Arroyo Grande, CA The perfect pairing for grilled fare, this peach salad comes together quickly and highlights summer fruits and flavors.

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