Wine Enthusiast |
- Making the Hospitality Business Better for Workers Isn’t Easy. But It’s Necessary.
- How to Make Wine Travel More Sustainable
- 10 California Rosés That Give Provence a Run for Its Money
| Making the Hospitality Business Better for Workers Isn’t Easy. But It’s Necessary. Posted: 30 Jun 2021 05:00 AM PDT  If the novel coronavirus pandemic has taught us anything, it's how many aspects of bar and restaurant work needs to be addressed. In the hospitality business, our careers are focused on taking care of people—our patrons, our employees. We often forget to prioritize the needs of ourselves and immediate circles, placing issues that impact our day-to-day lives on the back burner. Being in tune with our bodies and minds, and in sync with how to best take care of them, is a skill. It requires education, intention, mindfulness and the will and desire to be the best version of ourselves. It doesn't have to be an all-or-nothing affair, and it certainly isn't a process that occurs overnight. It can be emotionally draining and it takes a long time. So, how do you set yourself up for success? Call In / Call OutOver the last year, social justice issues dominated conversations and needed immediate attention. People, organizations and establishments have been called out on their behavior and called in to address the harm they've caused within the industry. When we call someone in, the focus should be on reflection, not reaction. We are seeking an opportunity for those who have done damage to understand or learn more about the situation at hand. Calling someone out occurs when we need to prevent immediate harm. There are certainly moments when one may be more effective than the other. The only way change will occur is if the bars, restaurants, individuals and organizations who are called in or out are held accountable by everyone in the industry. That means people in managerial roles must lead by example, be consistent and upfront about their expectations for themselves and others, and acknowledge when their behaviors cause harm. Accountability is also especially important when we're dealing with people in our immediate circles. They are not without flaws. As their peers and friends, it's our responsibility to inform them when they're wrong, not to ignore or excuse their behavior. Setting Up ProtectionsWhenever we have conversations about harm or pain in the hospitality industry, it's essential to set up "protections” for anyone who may be affected by the information being shared. Prefacing social media posts or staff meetings with trigger or content warnings goes a long way. Consider what resources or programs could be helpful to provide after difficult conversations. If you're discussing legal advocacy or state-specific information for victims of sexual assault or violence, for example, I would recommend referencing the NWLC (National Women's Law Center), which also works with male-identifying individuals, or RAINN (Rape, Abuse & Incest National Network). In clinical settings, trauma-informed care acknowledges the need to understand a patient's life experiences. Respecting and anticipating the needs of those around you can improve your engagement and outcome, not to mention your staff's overall wellness. Establishing Effective BoundariesWhat behaviors violate your safety and the safety of others? Is it a bar patron who unnecessarily touches your staff, or a colleague who tells off-color jokes after closing? Be firm, fair, and direct about what you need and want to create boundaries for yourself. Boundaries are not requests. They are necessities. And the point of them is to stop harm. If harm still occurs, then those boundaries are not yet in place. Harm and HumilityWhen harm occurs, it's essential to acknowledge it. Otherwise, it's impossible to reconcile. If you've caused harm to others, be clear about the purpose of your messaging, who you have caused harm to and the next steps that you will take to address it. The most impactful thing you can do is lean into humility and the lesson that was learned. Dismantle any harmful behavior to ensure it doesn't continue. We're Only HumanWe are human. We will cause harm. However, it’s important to acknowledge when these behaviors exhibit patterns. To truly implement change, we need to be open to addressing harmful behaviors, patterns and systems. This work is emotionally difficult, and can sometimes be humiliating, and that's okay. It sometimes requires us to look within ourselves to see how we can be better. Be kind to yourself, and take it one day at a time. For more essays by drinks professionals, visit Outpourings: Industry Voices. |
| How to Make Wine Travel More Sustainable Posted: 30 Jun 2021 04:30 AM PDT  A recent survey reported that 65% of respondents missed travel so much over the last year they'd be willing to give up social media for a month to have a safe vacation. For those who prioritize ecological travel, there are endless on- and off-screen considerations needed to plan a wine trip. Travelers with sustainability objectives must "examine every leg of the trip," says Liz Thach, MW, an author and professor of wine at Sonoma State University. As tourism resumes around the world, wine lovers have an opportunity to slow down and rethink how they travel. From transportation, hotels, wineries, restaurants and even the shops patronized, no service bundles sustainable choices together for wine lovers. So, here's how to make wine travel choices that you and future generations can live with.  TransportationThach suggests renting a hybrid or electric vehicle for road trips. Sustainable Wine Tours in Santa Barbara will even drive you around in a Tesla. For flights, look to carbon-offset programs, where travelers pay to "offset" or make up for the emissions that flights produce. Programs include World Land Trust, supported by naturalist Sir David Attenborough, and Gold Standard, which lets customers contribute to programs like reforestation in Nicaragua or clean drinking water in Rwanda. A growing number of cities offer bike share programs, says Thach, while popular wine country bike tours include MountNBArrel in Hood River, Oregon, and East End Bike Tours in New York's Long Island. Some places offer robust train systems, like that between Paris and Bordeaux. ReusablesDo you buy bottled water? Pack a reusable collapsible container like the Hydaway or Nomader, or a flat-packable Vapur. Single-use coffee cups are as much a problem as plastic bottles, so bring a Stojo or Hunu, and even this collapsible kettle by Tayama for the on-the-go brewer.   It’s easy to pack recycled or organic cotton totes. Bring them to wineries to reduce single-use plastic bags. AccommodationLook for wine country properties dedicated to environmental principles, and do your due diligence when researching them. LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) properties are considered the gold standard in green building strategies like energy efficiency. However, some have been accused of exaggerating environmental achievements, so examine properties individually. In Napa Valley, for example, Bardessono has achieved Platinum certification, and review of its credentials shows a host of ambitious initiatives like solar and geothermal energy infrastructure, salvaged construction materials, treatment and recycling of grey and black water, low-flow water fixtures, and drought-tolerant and native landscaping.  Regenerative Travel highlights properties that seek to improve the environment and surrounding community. Cofounder Amanda Ho has vetted resorts and hotels, including two in wine country. Tuscany's Oasy Hotel occupies a former hunting lodge in a nature reserve, and the Sublime Comporta, on the coast of Portugal, grows food in its garden, partners with community fishermen and farmers and recycles wastewater, among its low-impact and supportive initiatives. Wineries and Eco-TourismThe ultimate way to align your values and wallet is to patronize regions and wineries that demonstrate commitment to sustainable, organic and/or biodynamic agriculture. More than 99% of Sonoma County vineyards are certified sustainable, says Karissa Kruse, president of the Sonoma County Winegrowers trade group. "I have heard from consumers, wine lovers and even our local community that they feel good about being a part of the sustainability and climate movement that is happening [here]," says Kruse. Sonoma County Winegrowers has partnered with several wineries to create self-guided vineyard walks that showcase sustainability practices, which it highlights on its website. Demand for nature hikes and educational eco-tours has grown, though most global tourism board sites haven't caught up. It's often easier to find "dog- and kid-friendly winery recommendations than eco-friendly wine tourism activities," says Thach.  Research the sustainable, organic and/or biodynamic wineries in the region you'd like to visit, and then check their websites for eco-tours. Slow Wine, an annual guide offered by Slow Food, recommends wineries that meet criteria like wine quality, adherence to terroir, value for money and environmental sensitivity. It offers comprehensive listings for Italy, Slovenia, California, Oregon, and it plans to soon offer similar picks for New York and Washington. In California, Benziger offers one of the best known eco-tours. The company created its Tribute Estate Tour & Tasting "so that guests can have a real-life experience of how biodynamics happen in the vineyard," says Chris Benziger, a brand ambassador. "When they're immersed in the experience, they rediscover the power of nature. They have an 'a-ha!' moment that this is what farming is all about." The 90-minute tour, limited to groups of eight, costs $60 per person and explores the Sonoma Mountain estate vineyards, followed by an alfresco tasting of four biodynamic wines. We Recommend: Regina Weinstein, director of marketing and retail for Honig Vineyard & Winery in Napa, says consumers "love, love, love" its eco-tours. For $45, a Honig guide brings guests around the vineyard to learn about bird boxes, beehives, owl perches and water management strategies, as well as Honig's role in restoring the Rutherford Reach of the Napa River. "Eco-tours are particularly popular now," says Weinstein. "Younger generation visitors are the most concerned with the environmental impact of the companies they support." Habitat restoration has taken a lead role at Jordan Winery. CEO and proprietor John Jordan read articles on the dwindling Western monarch population, which inspired the company to create a pollinator sanctuary along its four-mile Vineyard Hike trails ($110 per person). "We know that many pollinators have lost their habitat due to wildfires over the last five years," says Jordan. "We felt like we had the land…and the will to do something." So far, the winery says it's planted 10 acres of sanctuaries with 102 species of plants, which support at least 60 species of butterflies and moths. When the Earth Week hikes were announced in April, they sold out within an hour, says Lisa Mattson, Jordan's director of marketing & communications. In Oregon, Knudsen Vineyards, which is certified Low Input Viticulture and Enology (LIVE) and Salmon Safe, offers a guided vineyard hike followed by a lunch and tasting ($65/person).  Restoration and RewildingConsider a rewilding day, where you restore an area to its uncultivated state, or visit an ecosystem restoration camp to boost the positive impact of your travels. Rewild Europe, a conservation group that restores and protects natural processes and wilderness across the continent, has efforts underway near wine regions in Portugal, Italy, Germany, Moldova, Croatia, Romania and Bulgaria. In Portugal's Greater Côa Valley, the Wild Côa Network presents an association of sustainable businesses that promote responsible, educational, and cultural travel, like Portugal A2Z Walking & Biking tours and Casas do Juízo, a rural village surrounded by vineyards. To raise awareness for rewilding efforts, Symington Family Estates launched a new wine packaged in a recyclable bag-in-tube container. It says that a portion of proceeds are donated to the Rewilding Portugal initiative. Ecosystem restoration camps offer both pop-up days and multiday camps. In 2018, California's Camp Fire devastated 153,336 acres, destroyed more 18,000 structures and killed 85 people. The Camp Fire Restoration Project, also called Camp Paradise, was started after the fire to support reforestation and the community around the town of Paradise. In one event, campers helped locals restore burned lands, and organizers taught new skills and shared resources like native trees better adapted to fire. Most overnight camps shuttered during the pandemic, but many are slowly reopening, with several on the horizon for Australia, Portugal, Spain and France. Camp Mama Adama in the Alentejo, for example, engages campers to restore trees affected by a fungus. Activities range from cleaning and replanting new trees to work in the garden, Sunrise meditations are offered in the morning, and local wine is served in the evening. |
| 10 California Rosés That Give Provence a Run for Its Money Posted: 30 Jun 2021 04:00 AM PDT  Summer is in full swing, and what could be better than a super-chilled glass of rosé to keep the heat at bay? While Provence may be the spiritual home of pink wines, California is giving the southern French locale a run for its money with a wide range of quality driven examples. So the next time you need a bit of refreshment, look to Cali for your rosé enjoyment. Caraccioli 2020 Escolle Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $25, 94 points. This bottling begins with crystalline strawberry, pink-lemonade and rose-petal aromas on the crisp, clean and delicious nose. There is a fantastic sizzle on the sip, where a chalky grip frames the poached strawberry, pluot and rose petal flavors. —Matt Kettmann Hartford Court 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $30, 94 points. Made predominantly from grapes grown at the Fog Dance Vineyard, a vineyard-designate of its own, this memorably delicious wine is light in color and delicately inviting in tangerine, peach and strawberry. Stainless-steel fermented, it remains crisp on the palate with just a touch of orangesicle richness on the finish. Editors' Choice. —Virginie Boone A Tribute to Grace 2020 Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard Rosé of Grenache (Santa Barbara County); $25, 93 points. A very pale shade of pink in the glass, this bottling begins with aromas of rose petal, honeydew and wet slate. The palate is extremely tense and grippy—like licking stones and seashells, as flavors of red apple and rose petal float toward the finish. —M.K. Red Car 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $28, 93 points. Crisp red fruit dominates in this lovely wine, which delivers a great depth of flavor and nuance. Tangerine and blood orange characteristics add continued freshness and undeniable appeal. —V.B. Joel Gott 2020 Rosé (Central Coast); $16, 91 points. For a widely available rosé, this is a solid deal, beginning with aromas of clean bubblegum, strawberry shave ice and chalk. There is a firm tension to the sip, where ripe watermelon and strawberry flavors will please the masses, yet the chalky texture will keep experts enthused as well. Editors' Choice. —M.K. Joseph Jewell 2020 Slusser Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $24, 91 points. Fruity and layered in waves of raspberry, strawberry and watermelon, this light, crisp wine delivers vibrant flavor and texture. Dried herb and a hint of lemongrass add complementary nuance and deliciousness. —V.B. McKahn 2020 Rosé of Grenache (Shenandoah Valley); $26, 91 points. A pale-pink color, tempting Ruby Red grapefruit aromas and light, fresh, crisp flavors give this light-bodied wine charm and grace. Its raspberry and mint notes are surprisingly concentrated and lingering. Editors' Choice. —Jim Gordon Dancing Crow 2020 Rosé of Syrah (Lake County); $20, 90 points. This attractive, well-balanced wine is light-salmon in color, offers fresh raspberry and peach aromas and nicely ripe yet tangy flavors on the palate. —J.G. LangeTwins 2020 River Ranch Vineyard Aglianico Rosé (Jahant); $22, 90 points. Generous fruit flavors and a polished texture are complemented by bright, underlying acidity in this flavorful, well-balanced and harmonious wine made from an Italian grape variety. —J.G. Noble Vines 2020 515 Rosé (Central Coast); $12, 90 points. There's a bright bubblegum and cotton-candy combo that kicks off the nose on this bottling, but a hint of white ash adds a more serious streak. Orange blossom and ripe nectarine flavors show on the sip, bound together by a stony, chalky frame. Best Buy. —M.K. |
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