Wine Enthusiast

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• A Six-Bottle Master Class to Chardonnay
• North Carolina’s Craft Distillers Combine Southern Hospitality With Spirited History
• How the 18th Century Whiskey Rebellion Changed U.S. Attitudes Toward Revolt

A Six-Bottle Master Class to Chardonnay Posted: 25 May 2021 04:30 AM PDT Getty One of the most versatile grapes in the world, Chardonnay typically falls into two camps for wine drinkers: those who love it and those who hate it. For those who politely decline the variety, it's usually because their first introduction was a cheap, mass-produced version that tasted like imitation popcorn butter. But Chardonnay can take on many forms, from deliciously delicate sparklers to still wines that run the gamut from crisp and steely to robust and round. While many American wine drinkers connect Chardonnay to California, its roots are in Burgundy, France. The grape is planted to nearly half of the region's total vineyard area. Its expression varies as a result of the area's range in climate, from cool northerly Chablis to more moderate temperatures in the Mâconnais to the south. Burgundian winemakers paved the way for modern winemaking practices like malolactic fermentation and barrel aging that tend to give Chardonnay a full-bodied, oaky and buttery texture. Those techniques found their way to America. The grape started to gain popularity, particularly in California, around the 1970s. Winemakers experimented quite a bit, and the American style of Chardonnay became defined largely as a high-alcohol, low-acid wine with minimal fruit expression and oodles of oak influence. Today, California winemakers have moved away from the butter bombs of the 1980s. They now produce wines, both unoaked and oaked, that showcase the variety's diversity when crafted in different parts of the state. If you're curious to understand the grape's varying expressions and find the perfect Chard for your palate, dive into these matchups: unoaked versus oaked Chardonnay; warm-climate versus cool-climate Chardonnay; and Burgundy versus California. As you taste each wine, make sure to jot down any specific flavors or aromas that you experience. And it's fine if you can't find the exact bottles we suggest. Your local wine retailer should be able to point you in the right direction of something similar. A ripe Chardonnay bunch hangs on the vine in Western Australia. / Getty Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay When it comes to these two types of Chardonnay, the biggest difference is that one has been fermented in stainless steel and the other fermented in oak barrels. While the average consumer may believe that California is only capable of making full-bodied and buttery wines, the truth is that Chardonnay which embodies rich oak and creamy texture can be found anywhere in the world. Chile, Australia, Argentina, and of course, France, also use a number of winemaking techniques that include oak to add hints of vanilla and toast to Chardonnay. When it comes to unoaked, lighter and zesty Chardonnay, stainless steel fermentations allow for the resulting wines to taste very crisp, clean and minerally. These offer typical flavors of green apple, lemon and pear. What ultimately makes the difference between unoaked and oaked Chardonnay is the way they are made and aged. Winemakers can choose between new French or American oak for the wine to embody certain toasty and nutty flavors. In addition to the type of oak used, timing is everything when it comes to oaked Chardonnay. It can be aged for as little as three months or as long as a year. It all depends on the style that the winemaker hopes to achieve. Malolactic fermentation also takes place during oak barrel fermentation, which contributes the creamy flavor and texture that many people enjoy. With unoaked Chardonnay, fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks, which allows for the fruit character to shine bright. The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best. Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay Flight Wine 1: Choose two bottles from the same region, or possibly even the same producer, to highlight the differences in winemaking technique. For a non-wooded selection, aside for "unoaked," look for other common descriptors like "steel" or "unwooded" on the label. Wine 2: For the oaked selection from your region of choice, look for key words like "reserve," "wooded" or "barrel fermented" on the label. A Chardonnay vineyard in Franschhoek, South Africa. / Getty Cool Climate vs. Warm Climate Chardonnay No matter where in the world a vine grows, it needs five things: heat, sunlight, carbon dioxide, water and nutrients from the soil. A wine region's climate is defined by its annual pattern of temperature, sunlight and rainfall over the course of several years. Chardonnay expresses itself differently based on the type of climate where the grapes are grown. In cool climates like the South Island of New Zealand, Chablis or Oregon's Willamette Valley, Chardonnay will express itself generally with higher acidity, more citrus-fruit flavor and minerality. It will also be lower in alcohol and zesty on the palate. Lower temperatures allow the grapes to retain their natural acidity and produce a Chardonnay that's lighter in body. Grapes grown in warmer climates like California, South Africa, Australia and Spain will generally be lower in acidity and higher in alcohol, but they'll bring forth richer, riper fruit flavors like pineapple, apple and lemon. Cool- vs. Warm-Climate Chardonnay Flight Wine 1: Choose a Chablis, which is an iconic example of cool-climate Chardonnay. Wine 2: Select a Chardonnay from South Australia to taste a sun-soaked, warm-climate version. Burgundy Chardonnay vs. California Chardonnay These are the two regions most famous for Chardonnay production. Burgundy is known for its vast, varying appellations and pioneering winemaking techniques. California is known for its history of "butter bombs," but now takes advantage of cool-climate areas to produce zestier, lighter-bodied wines. A scenic view of the village of Meursault in the Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France. / Getty What makes Chardonnay a great grape is its ability to adjust to a variety of soil types. In Burgundy, terroir can change over the course of small areas, which can create unique expressions of the grape. Winemakers in France produce a number of quality levels, or crus, to best showcase the fruit's quality. In the Golden State, altitude and vineyard aspect can play a major role in the grape's exposure to the sun. It gives Chardonnay the opportunity to ripen and produce full-bodied wines that are high in alcohol. Price can often help to determine the quality of a good white Burgundy or California Chardonnay, but it's important to note where the wine was sourced. Regional wines, like those that are labeled Bourgogne, tend to be inexpensive, while bottlings from site-specific premiers or grands crus will be more expensive. For California Chardonnay, Napa Valley and Sonoma County will be the American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) to seek out for high-quality examples. Burgundy vs. California Chardonnay Flight Wine 1: A white wine from any of the regions in the Côte de Beaune will provide a benchmark example of Burgundian Chardonnay. Look for bottles from Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. Wine 2: The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

North Carolina’s Craft Distillers Combine Southern Hospitality With Spirited History Posted: 25 May 2021 04:00 AM PDT Eda Rhyne's Rider Burton making mash (left) and Chris Bower smelling sumac (right) / Photo by Evan Anderson Photos When it comes to spirits, North Carolina punches above its weight. In 2020, the state was home to 77 craft distilleries, up 15% from the previous year. That makes North Carolina second to just Texas, a state more than five times its size, in the South for its number of distilleries. Collectively, the Carolinas were previously known for making moonshine, originally an illicit distilled spirit made to evade taxation (or Prohibition). More recently, legal distilleries have leaned into so-called "moonshine" style, which means often minimally aged corn whiskey or rum-like "sugar 'shine." "There are so many channels on TV that have highlighted moonshining and its history," says Yashira Mejia, a Charlotte-based freelance mixologist and service industry consultant. She points to Call Family Distillers in Wilkes County as a distillery with a legit history of liquor production and sales under the cover of moonlit nights. "This is a family, a generation of moonshiners," says Mejia. "In the '40s, '50s and '60s, this area was the epicenter of moonshining. You can go on [Call Family's] site and see the fast cars they used to transport the moonshine and escape federal agents." Muddy River Distillery’s tasting bar / Photo courtesy Muddy River Such stories may help build excitement, but North Carolina's distilleries also turn out plenty of rum, gin, even a line of amaros that has a keen following of bartenders. So, what makes a distillery uniquely North Carolinian? "The Southern hospitality, that charm," says Mejia. "You don't get it in every distillery, but when you do, you know where it's at." Here are nine North Carolina distilleries to seek out. Blue Ridge Distilling Company: Just one product is made at this Bostic facility: Defiant, an American single malt. "Some places don't like to share their recipe, but they tell you straight up this is made with yeast and water from the Blue Ridge Mountains," says Mejia. The whiskey is steeped with oak staves/spirals, a process "far more efficient than barrels," the producer claims. Call Family Distillers: High-proof moonshines in mason jars are the signature offering here. Call Family crafts theirs from a base of malted barley, local corn, wheat and cane sugar. Flavored versions include Apple Pie and Strawberry. The lineup is named "The Uncatchable," a reference to the family's collection of vintage high-speed getaway cars, once used to outrun the feds. Durham Distillery exterior and the producer’s Conniption Gin / Photo by Food Seen (Felicia Perry Trujillo) for Durham Distillery Durham Distillery: Best known for Conniption Gin, products from this Research Triangle distillery are available across the U.S. Mejia lauds its garden-to-glass Cucumber Vodka and Damn Fine Liqueurs lineup, saying the latter is "very delicious" and "dangerous." Eda Rhyne’s Rustic Nocino, Amaro Flora and Appalachian Fernet / Photo by Evan Anderson Photos Eda Rhyne Distilling Company: This Asheville producer crafts small-batch amaro and digestif liqueurs that include the walnut-based Rustic Nocino and bitter Appalachian Fernet. It has also racked up a following among bartenders. The spirits are flavored with organic botanicals, some grown on Owner and Distiller Rett Murphy's Aardvark Farm, while others are foraged from the nearby Blue Ridge Mountains. Great Wagon Road’s distilling team, left to right: Ryan Waters, Oliver Mulligan, Michelle Piechowicz, and Nala, the three-legged dog / Packaging graphics by Lauren Griffin @typogriff / Photos courtesy Great Wagon Road Distilling Great Wagon Road Distilling: Founded by an Irish native whose grandfather made whiskey, this Charlotte distillery makes poteen (poitin), an unaged spirit with Irish roots that some liken to moonshine. It also makes Rúa, an American single-malt whiskey that takes its name from the Gaelic word for "red head," a reference to its ruddy amber hue. Muddy River Distillery: The Catawba River, located just outside downtown Charlotte, gives this rum-centric distillery a scenic backdrop. "One of my favorites is their Queen Charlotte's Reserve Single Barrel 4 Year Carolina Rum," says Mejia. Muddy River’s Queen Charlotte’s Reserve Carolina Rum / Photo courtesy Muddy River Southern Grace Distilleries: Housed in a former prison, this Mount Pleasant distillery makes Bourbon and other whiskey under its Conviction label. Southern Grace takes advantage of the facility's checkered history with "After Dark Tours" of the grounds, conducted by flashlight. The Hackney Distillery: The sole bottling here is 1,000 Piers, a "Coastal Carolina gin." It's made in the London Dry style from 22 botanicals including orange, grapefruit, lemongrass and star anise. "It's citrus-forward and very fragrant," says Mejia. "The botanicals are used in a thoughtful way." The distillery is adjacent to The Hackney, a British/American restaurant helmed by chef Jamie Davis. "When you're sitting down, you see the copper still right behind the bar," says Mejia.

How the 18th Century Whiskey Rebellion Changed U.S. Attitudes Toward Revolt Posted: 25 May 2021 03:30 AM PDT Getty In 1789, America was faced with a debt of $79 million, equivalent to about $2.4 billion today. The cause? The Revolutionary War (1775–1783). Treasury Secretary Alexander Hamilton (1757–1804) suggested that the federal government assume the debt and pay it off through various taxes, like the Excise Whiskey Tax, which passed in 1791. The legislation taxed domestic and imported alcohol, and it was immediately unpopular in areas like western Pennsylvania. Due to its structure, small producers like grain farmers often had to pay as much as 9 cents ($2.73 today) per gallon, while larger, dedicated distilleries paid as little as 6 cents per gallon ($1.82 today). Despite the tax, farmers produced whiskey for a number of reasons. Due to the war's impact on alcohol importation, it was difficult to acquire foreign spirits like rum. Meanwhile, beer was hard to store and transport across the Allegheny Mountains. In contrast, whiskey made from local corn kept well and allowed farmers to do something with surplus corn that would otherwise rot. A still during the whiskey rebellion / Getty Tax payments had to be made in cash, but the use of cash was a rarity the further west in Pennsylvania one traveled, where people often paid for goods and services partly or wholly in whiskey. Whiskey was the informal medium of exchange. Many families only saw a few actual dollars during the year and paying the tax in cash could've severely impacted their ability to make other cash purchases. Producers in western Pennsylvania had to ship their whiskey up to 300 miles before they could sell it, which further reduced their revenue. Distilleries located closer to cities didn't have that extra overhead. The tax wasn't just unpopular due to the financial burden it placed on producers, but the thought of paying a distant sovereign and being dragged 300 miles to stand trial if you refused bore resemblance to the way colonists were treated by England. Initially, many refused to pay. Some argued that the structure was unfair to smaller producers and that paying in money was too burdensome. This made tax collection difficult. Famously, on September 11, 1971, Robert Johnson, a tax collector, was tarred and feathered on his collection route in Washington County. Later, John Conner, a cattle driver, tried to collect on the resulting warrants for two men that Johnson recognized during the attack. He was also tarred and feathered before being tied to a tree for several hours. It came to a head on the morning of July 16, 1794, when a mob surrounded Bower Hill, the home of tax collector John Neville near Pittsburgh. The day prior, Neville had attempted to serve a distiller a summons to appear in court for refusing to pay his tax but was chased off the property. However, one of the soldiers hired to protect his property informed the mob Neville had already fled. Enraged, the mob called for the soldiers to surrender and when they refused, the group set fire to the property and opened fire on Neville's home. It was during this skirmish that the mob's leader, Revolutionary War veteran James McFarlane, was killed. Further enraged by the death of McFarlane, thousands of men marched toward Pittsburgh to capture the city shortly after the incident at Neville's home. And while the mob was unsuccessful and the situation was ultimately diffused, government officials in Philadelphia decided something needed to be done about this string of violent events. President Washington sent state and federal commissioners to try and resolve the situation. But when they failed, Supreme Court Justice James Wilson ruled that Pennsylvania's western counties were in open rebellion. Washington summoned more than 12,000 militia members from the surrounding states to fight the rebels. There was little violence when the two forces met. The majority of the rebels had already dispersed, and only 150 were arrested. Two were charged with treason and sentenced to hang, but they were pardoned eventually by President Washington. The moment in U.S. history demonstrated that the federal government not only had the support of the state government, but was capable of suppressing armed rebellion. Many producers still refused to pay the whiskey tax and it was later repealed in 1802 during Thomas Jefferson's presidency. Initially opposed to the tax, he used the collection difficulties to help justify its repeal.

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