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Tuesday, August 17, 2021

Wine Enthusiast

Wine Enthusiast


Bar and Restaurant Workers Become ‘Vaccine Bouncers’ Amid New Mandates

Posted: 17 Aug 2021 05:00 AM PDT

Vaccine mandate
Getty

On August 17, New York City introduced a policy that requires proof of vaccination for those who want to drink or dine at indoor bars and restaurants. New Orleans has a similar mandate in place and San Francisco will introduce one on August 20. Last week, Los Angeles City Council members voted in favor of vaccine requirements at indoor bars and restaurants, though details are still being determined.

How are these policies enforced?

While some venues employ dedicated security guards, others have asked existing employees to work the door as "vaccine bouncers." It's a difficult task amid staff shortages and the politicization of vaccines, and one that workers say requires full support of managers and owners.

"There will be a security guard out front checking all guests," Los Angeles’ Osteria La Buca restaurant posted on Instagram on July 30. "Our priority has always been the protection of our staff and guests. We haven't fought this hard, for this long, to let it go awry now."

Some bars and restaurants require proof of vaccine to enter their bars or restaurants, regardless of city or state decrees.

At the Ridgewood, NJ location of It's Greek to Me, owner and operator Paul Vagianos says he's empowered all of his staff to check for vaccines before seating patrons indoors. Those who can't prove they've been vaccinated can still sit outside, and they can briefly enter the restaurant—wearing a mask—if they need to use the restroom, but seating options stop at the door for the unvaccinated.

The decision is "not a political statement," Vagianos says. "This is simply an attempt to make this as safe as possible for everyone and to accommodate everyone."

Vagianos also says his staff is fully vaccinated and completely on board with their role in implementing the policy.

Denver Osteria Marco
Denver’s Osteria Marco plans to require guests to sign a health declaration / Credit Joni Schrantz

City Winery has eight locations around the U.S., including in Nashville and Atlanta. The company requires that guests provide proof of vaccination to enter any of its establishments.

"Vaccine card and ID checks are handled by the concierge if attending a concert, or host if you’re coming in to dine," says Melissa Krinsky, the brand's marketing manager.

Abby Hoffman, the assistant general manager of Denver's Osteria Marco, is excited about the restaurant group's imminent policy around vaccination requirements. Instead of asking patrons to show their vaccine cards, Osteria Marco requires guests to sign a health declaration stating that they've been vaccinated.

This policy will go into effect on September 30, and Hoffman will lead the charge. A large part of her day is spent welcoming guests into the restaurant, she says.

"I am always happy to speak with anyone who is uncomfortable with the health declaration," she says. "For anyone who is uncomfortable with our vaccination policies, we will always offer to serve them to-go meals that they can enjoy in the safety of their home."

"For anyone who is uncomfortable with our vaccination policies, we will always offer to serve them to-go meals that they can enjoy in the safety of their home." —Abby Hoffman, Osteria Marco

New Orleans restaurant Lengua Madre has tasked hostess Fabeyana Jackson with greeting customers and asking for proof of the vaccine.

"Thus far, I've only had to turn away one reservation at the door for not having proof of vaccination," Jackson says. "Apologetically, I just told them that unfortunately without proof of vaccination, they couldn't dine with us." Jackson says the guests weren't irate and did not question the policy.

Some would-be diners who first learn of Lengua Madre's policy over the phone when trying to make a reservation have expressed frustration, though. "That's a shame," Jackson says she's heard once or twice in response to her relaying the restaurant's policy.

Vaccine mandate Los Angeles
An employee checks a vaccine card for proof of Covid-19 vaccination at Langer’s Deli in Los Angeles, California on August 7, 2021 / Photo by Patrick T. Fallon/AFP via Getty

Unfortunately, workers at bars and restaurants nationwide have reported backlash to vaccine requirements. These range from angry and disgruntled comments on social media pages of businesses; to death threats.

"People were literally wishing death upon our family, our staff, everyone we knew," Salt Lake City restaurant owner Mark Alston told the Associated Press earlier this month. He'd asked guests to provide proof of vaccination when the restaurant reopened in May.

Royce Oliveira, co-owner of Denver's To the Wind Bistro, says that a nearby bar received angry responses when it began to require proof of vaccination to entry. In April, To the Wind started hosting a weekly Vaccination Night exclusively for guests who could provide proof of vaccination, but it doesn't currently plan to implement additional programming for vaccinated diners.

Fear of backlash isn't the reason why the restaurant won't require vaccines to enter, though, Oliveira says.

"It's a lot more work trying to check people's cards," he says, "and we're a pretty tight staff right now."

To provide proof of vaccination, guests can download vaccine passports, use apps like the Excelsior Pass (for New York residents), or, in some states, access their digital vaccine records through a free service, MyIR Mobile.

Want to Get Into Wine? These Books Can Help

Posted: 17 Aug 2021 04:45 AM PDT

Wine books
Clockwise from top left: Octopus Books; Ten Speed Press; Sterling Publishing; Granta; Penguin Random House

When Nicole Hitchcock started out in wine, a sommelier recommended she read Kevin Zraly's Windows on the World Complete Wine Course. The book made a lasting impression.

"It was both comprehensive and easy to understand," says Hitchcock, now the head winemaker at J Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg, California. "I appreciated how it covered multiple aspects of wine in a nonintimidating way."

Whether you're pursuing a career as a sommelier or winemaker, or simply want to make informed shopping decisions, books can demystify the seemingly Talmudic complexities of wine. A great read can also galvanize veteran wine pros and armchair experts to explore different regions, techniques or trends.

Approachability is key, especially for those new to wine.

"I love the book The New Wine Rules by Jon Bonné," says Alicia Tenise Chew, a content creator at aliciatenise.com. It makes wine “less stuffy" and empowers readers "to taste and purchase wine confidently," she says. "It’s short, sweet and tells you what you really need to know about the wine world."

Alicia Tenise Chew
Content creator Alicia Tenise Chew / Photo courtesy Alicia Tenise Chew

Tish Wiggins, a wine educator and event curator, recommends beginners pick up The Less is More Approach to Wine by Charles Springfield.

"This book is a great building block for understanding the primary grapes, prominent wine regions and insight into developing your palate," she says. "It also gives an excellent overview of the history of wine."

Reference books provide various points of entry and can be useful at all stages of wine expertise. Wine Educator Desiree Harrison-Brown says she regularly consults The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil.

"Hands down one of my favorite wine books," says Harrison-Brown. "It’s one that I reference when drinking a glass of wine, or when I want to escape reality."

Published in 2000, the book sold more than a million copies.

"Not only does it educate about wine and growing regions, but it treats the subject matter, wine, for what it is, a culture and lifestyle,” says Kwaw Amos, the founder of Gotham Winery.

Wiggins agrees. She sometimes uses The Wine Bible to prepare for classes she teaches.

"I consider this book the holy grail for expanding your wine knowledge," she says.

Desiree Harrison Brown wine
Wine educator Desiree Harrison-Brown / Photo by Kelsey Edwards/Eddie Photography

Another encyclopedic resource popular among professionals is The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson. Now in its eighth edition, it spans wine history, maps, production methods and beyond.

"It's the kind of book that you can flip open quickly to find a specific piece of information that you're seeking or can curl up with on a rainy day while sipping on a glass of some obscure wine from far away that you'd like to learn more about," says Hitchcock.

For aspiring winemakers, Hitchcock suggests Making Good Wine by Bryce Rankine.

"I picked up this book while working a harvest internship in Western Australia years ago and really appreciated how the author distilled technical information down into understandable and actionable concepts," she says.

These days, she loans her copy the interns she employs. "One of them liked it enough to walk away with it, so now I need to purchase a new copy!"

Nicole Hitchcock wine
Winemaker Nicole Hitchcock / Photo courtesy J. Vineyards & Winery

Chef, sommelier and mixologist Aaron Thompson co-owns Osteria Stella and Brother Wolf in Knoxville, Tennessee. He likes Wine Folly by Madeline Puckette and Justin Hammack. It's "an incredible tool to demystify wine tasting… a must for new wine enthusiasts," says Thompson.

Wiggins believes the book can be useful for intermediate wine lovers, too.

“Puckette does a great job of giving you details about each grape from the tasting notes, food pairing suggestions, where it's grown, and suggestions of other grapes that are similar in style and structure," she says.

The first wine book Thompson ever read was Adventures on the Wine Route: A Wine Buyers Tour of France by Kermit Lynch. It was revelatory, he says.

"Reading this book leveled up my passion for Old World wine, my understanding of terroir, and ignited a fire within me that continues to fuel my personal wine journey."

Harrison-Brown calls Lynch's travelogue "inspiring… I have learned about some of my now favorite producers like Domaine Tempier from this book."

Aaron Thompson wine
Chef, mixologist and sommelier Aaron Thompson / Photo by Tommy Blankenship

Specialization can make the breadth of the wine world more approachable.

Lee Campbell, a wine consultant and the sommelier at Veranda in New York City, recommends 99 Bottles: A Black Sheep's Guide to Life-Changing Wines by André Mack, and Natural Wine for the People: What It Is, Where to Find It, How to Love It by Alice Feiring.

"Both of these authors write from a very personal place, but it is a specificity which creates access," he says. "To be sure, there is plenty of empirical information in both books, but their respective lenses help budding connoisseurs digest the behemoth of oenology into fantastically fun and approachable, bite-sized portions.”

Dan O'Brien Gail Wines
Winemaker and proprietor Dan O’Brien / Photo by Jimmy Hayes

If you prefer to approach wine through the lens of food, Jeany Cronk, cofounder and co-owner of Maison Mirabeau in Cotignac, France, likes The Wine Dine Dictionary by Victoria Moore.

It covers "flavor in detail, and the starting points are some of our favorite foods, which are ordered alphabetically, like a dictionary," says Cronk. "It's interspersed with recipes and suggests lots of interesting pairings that may comfort or challenge the reader."

Stephen Jeany Domaine Mirabeau
Stephen and Jeany Cronk / Photo courtesy Domaine Mirabeau

Dan O'Brien, proprietor and winemaker at Gail Wines in California's Sonoma Valley, believes there's no substitute for firsthand tasting experience. Still, he says, books can educate and inspire everyone from beginners to the most seasoned wine professionals.

"I recently purchased The Wines of Gala [by Salvador Dalí], and it reminded me of why I do what I do," says O'Brien. "The book is not only beautiful but filled with art and information aligned with different regions around the world, highlighting the combination of artistry and hard work that goes into making wine."

Shift Drinks: Leaving Wall Street, Film and Other Careers for Wine

Posted: 17 Aug 2021 04:00 AM PDT

An illustration of people working in wine

There's no perfect time to get involved in wine. Entering the industry after a career in another field (or two, or three) can mean approaching things with fresh eyes and an out-of-the-box perspective. We checked in with a variety of pros who did just that to see how their previous experiences informed, helped them navigate or otherwise benefitted their current roles.

Here's what they had to say.

Dana Spaulding, Founder and CEO of Wander + Ivy
Dana Spaulding, founder and CEO of Wander + Ivy

Dana Spaulding

Founder and CEO, Wander + Ivy, Denver

"I spent almost a decade within JPMorgan's Asset Management division. My early career was based in New York City, managing wealth for hedge fund principals and Wall Street executives. There, I learned how to navigate an extremely fast-paced world. My later years at JPM were based in Denver, where I covered the food and beverage industries, among others. I was constantly inspired by and learning from their impressive entrepreneurial journeys. I gained insights into what it truly took to build and scale a new and innovative company."

Destiny Burns, Owner of CLE Urban Winery
Destiny Burns, Owner of CLE Urban Winery

Destiny Burns

Owner CLE Urban Winery, Cleveland, OH

"Having those good leadership and project management skills and attention to detail and all of the things that the military gives you [over a 20-year career in the Navy] was very helpful in building a successful business… I've lived in Hawaii, I've lived in Japan, I've lived on the East Coast of the United States. A lot of travel and being able to sample different cuisines and different wines was also inspiring."

Carroll Kemp, Partner and winemaker at Alma Fria
Carroll Kemp, partner and winemaker at Alma Fria

Carroll Kemp

Partner/winemaker Alma Fria, Sonoma area, CA

"I was a film producer in LA for many years before getting into the wine biz… Both sit at the nexus of art and commerce, and rely on the success of each to thrive. While the concentric circles overlap a bit, winemaking is primarily the artistic side, akin to writing and directing, while wine sales/marketing is the commerce side, representing producing and programming. Both businesses tell stories… The main difference is the underlying material. The wine business works with mother nature, while the film business deals with people."

Jamie Kutch, owner, winemaker and sales at Kutch Wines
Jamie Kutch, owner, winemaker and sales at Kutch Wines

Jamie Kutch

Owner/winemaker/sales Kutch Wines, Sonoma, CA

"Making the decision to trade Wall Street for tanks, barrels and vineyards ranks near the top for choices made in my life. Sixteen years later as I reflect back, while I left behind riches in terms of salary and bonuses, I am far richer in life experiences than most of my friends still grinding it out in New York… My experience from New York City, sitting under halogen lights and in corporate meetings, provided the framework for me to work relentlessly, seven days a week and not to accept failure. I have no interest in ever going back to Wall Street."

Gina Trippi, owner of Metro Wines
Gina Trippi, owner of Metro Wines

Gina Trippi

Owner Metro Wines, Asheville, NC

"The practice of law teaches you, forces you, how to strategize to win, to think in a goal-oriented way, and trial work instills public speaking skills and a certain fearlessness to try new ideas and put yourself out there in a bold way… I tell people everyday that no amount of education or experience taught me more than campaign work."

Sharon Sevrens, proprietor of Amanti Vino
Sharon Sevrens, proprietor of Amanti Vino

Sharon Sevrens

Proprietor Amanti Vino, Montclair & Morristown, NJ

"Management consulting, at its core, is about problem solving and re-engineering as needed. Throughout the last 16 years, Amanti Vino has had to make strategic modifications multiple times. Most notable were in response to the financial crisis in 2008 and during the Covid-19 pandemic. We grew through both of these challenging times by nimbly changing our focus and/or approach… My investment banking background has also been invaluable as I am super focused on understanding the financial implications of my decisions."

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