Wine Enthusiast |
- The Ancient Greek Varieties Making Thoroughly Modern Wines
- Spain’s Best Red Wine Vintages to Drink in 2021
- Seven Essential Tools Every Home Bartender Needs
| The Ancient Greek Varieties Making Thoroughly Modern Wines Posted: 22 Apr 2021 07:01 AM PDT  In Greece, wine is deeply woven into the fabric of everyday society and is a central component of cultural history. The country is one of the world's most ancient viticultural locations. References to consumption and cultivation appear in literature and historical texts as early as the 17th century B.C. Indigenous wine varieties once favored by Hesiod and Aristotle are still produced today. "Wine has played a central role in everyday Greek life for more than 4,000 years," says Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, a historian, viticulturist and wine producer. She says evidence of a bustling wine culture and trade on islands like Crete and Santorini, and in the mainland Peloponnese region, traces to the 2nd millennium B.C. In addition to serving religious and medicinal purposes in ancient times, wine was central to "intellectual gatherings called 'symposia,' where they would eat and talk while drinking wine, with Greek sommelier, or oenochooi, serving them," says Spinthiropoulou. "The nutritional value of wine was well known by [them], and it became a dominant part of their diet as well as their philosophy of life." Social and political upheaval of subsequent Roman, Byzantine and Turkish occupations impeded and sometimes suspended commercial production of Greece's legendary ancient varieties. Yet, local production and demand for the one-of-a-kind wines endured throughout the ages. Today, Greece's oldest varieties have found a growing audience on the international market, thanks to passionate sommeliers and wine historians, and an increasing number of progressive Greek vintners committed to protecting and perfecting these liquid relics. Among Greece's more than 300 indigenous grapes, several are millennia old. Assyrtiko, Limnio, Robola and Liatiko are four that draw particular attention for their world-class quality, with traditional and modern styles that align with 21st-century palates. Let's discover this fascinating taste of the past.  AssyrtikoThe smoky, salty and cellar–worthy white wine borne of Santorini's moonscape-like volcanic vineyards dates back more than 3,500 years. Grown in sandy, nutrient-poor soils resistant to the phylloxera pest that decimated vineyards across the world, Santorini was left untouched. This enabled the development of hearty vineyards, some of which are more than 150 years old. In fact, the island boasts some the few self-rooted vines left in Europe. Producers here still practice traditional techniques like the kouloura, in which plants are pruned into a low basket around the grapes, which protects them from the island's strong winds, hot sun and blowing sand. The practice also limits the vines' need for water. The result is startling for first-time visitors unused to the wild and sparse appearance of these coveted plots. Other evidence of historic viticulture, like the dry stone and petrified lava walls built to slow erosion by the island's relentless winds, still stand. They connect the island's booming modern wine culture to its long and storied past. Despite its rich history on the island, Assyrtiko's profile is hotter than it has been in centuries, in large part due to its singular, terroir-driven identity. "Assyrtiko is a unique variety with a very distinctive character, very well adjusted to the harsh climate of the Cyclades," says Spinthiropoulou. "It has a high acidity and is rich in phenolic compounds, two elements which in Santorini's environment give birth to a distinctive aromatic character combined with very good structure." This flinty, full-bodied expression of Santorini may be the closest in style to its ancient expression, but the grape has also proven successful elsewhere. Increasingly, it's being planted in Attica, northern Greece, the Peloponnese and on Crete. It's also now cultivated in countries including Australia, Italy and South Africa. In these more nutrient-rich soils and under less traumatic conditions, Assyrtiko displays a softer, fruitier character that appeals to a broader range of palates. However, it maintains a hallmark acidity and minerality that sets it apart from other international wines. “It’s a variety that has shown it can be cultivated in different climates and soils, and while some regions give better characteristics than others, it’s difficult to find a bad Assyrtiko,” says Vagelis Gavalas, the fifth-generation winemaker of Santorini's Gavalas Winery. "We think it can be the flagship for the white wines of Greece.” Focusing on single expressions of the grape, the 300-year-old winery produces unoaked, oaked and wild-ferment bottlings, and its next project is a bottling produced from 150-year-old vines. Elsewhere on the island, producers like Sigalas, Gai'a, Argyros, Vassaltis and Hatzidakis have contributed to the grape's global success. Micro-terroir bottlings, experiments in underwater aging and library tastings reveal its potential as one of the world's great ageable white wines. The variety has long been used for Vinsanto, the sun-dried dessert wine made from Santorini white grapes (including, by law, 51% Assyrtiko) with origins in the 12th century. While no relation to Tuscan Vin Santo, the wine was named "Vino di Santo" by Venetians who controlled the Mediterranean trade routes during the Byzantine era. It was later famed in 18th-century Russia for its appealing flavors of warming spices and vibrant fruit. Today, elegant styles from producers like Argyros, Gai'a and others have kept it attuned to modern palates. Gavalas makes a Vinsanto, in which Assyrtiko is blended with smaller amounts of native varieties Aidani and Athiri. Assyrtiko has also shown its adaptability in sparkling wines by producers like Santorini's Santo Wines, and in a lively retsina made by Kechris Winery in Thessaloniki. "The global wine market is now very open to unique, rare wines," says Gavalas. "We are talking about a white wine with characteristics that are difficult to be found in many wines. It's in our hands to keep evolving the high standard of this variety." Spinthiropoulou agrees. "Indigenous, native varieties can be a challenge to consumers with other Greek wines," she says. "Assyrtiko seems to be our passport to the international market."  Bottles to TryGreek Wine Cellars Flowers 2019 Assyrtiko (Santorini); $27, 92 points. The nose on this Assyrtiko is open and generous, with scents of white flowers, lemon and herbs prevailing. It has a complex and savory character balanced by a touch of ripe white fruit. Skouras 2019 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Peloponnese); $18, 92 points. The nose on this wild-ferment white is elegant, with wet stone, smoke and crushed herb aromas. On the palate, it's complex yet focused, with a balance of lively fruit, minerality and spice. Editors' Choice. Wine Art Estate 2019 Plano Assyrtiko (Drama); $25, 92 points. Citrus, graphite and crushed herbs start off this mouthwatering Assyrtiko from Drama. On the palate, it's clean and fresh, with another wave of smoke on the finish. Alexakis 2019 Assyrtiko (Crete); $17, 91 points. The bouquet on this elegant Assyrtiko is packed with passion fruit, lemon peel and flowers, and on the palate, it’s exotic but refined, with tropical-fruit and citrus flavors and a pronounced minerality. The finish is lingering and mouthwatering. Pair with grilled fish or hard cheeses. Domaine Papagiannakos 2019 Assyrtiko (Attica); $22, 90 points. This Assyrtiko starts with mouthwatering lime, orange and tropical fruit aromas, followed by bright white fruit flavors and zippy acidity. The wine has texture, complexity and great aging potential. Gavalas 2019 Dry Assyrtiko (Santorini); $34, 90 points. Juicy fruit and citrus aromas start this elegant white. The wine is a combination of full-bodied tropical fruit and sea salt austerity. It finishes elegant and clean, with a spin of white pepper. LimnioThis red wine used by Homer's Odysseus to inebriate the Cyclops Polyphoum remains one of Greece's oldest on record. Hailing from the Aegean island of Lemnos, it was a major player in the sweet wine craze that dominated ancient Greece. Today, it's produced both in elegant, dry, single-variety bottlings and blends, mainly in the northern Greek mainland regions of Macedonia and Thrace. Limnio is typified by moderate, silky tannins, good acidity, a pronounced mineral nose and flavors of crushed herbs and bright red berries. Its full-bodied yet focused character has "more than a little in common with Barolo," says George Salpindigis, viticultural director at Tsantali Vineyards & Wineries. Experimentation in small plots with the variety started as early as 1975, but the winery began to more actively replant Limnio vines on Mount Athos in northwestern Greece in 2002. Tsantali now blends it with varieties like Agiorgitiko, Cabernet and Grenache in its Abaton and Kormilitsa bottlings. Limnio adds finesse and brightness to the layered reds. Though relatively rare, varietal bottlings by producers like Vourvoukeli Estate in Thrace and Garalis (on Lemnos) highlight Limnio's naturally vibrant palate and high acidity. Both stainless steel- and oak-aged expressions offer an intriguing alternative for fans of deep-flavored reds. Whatever its expression, Salpindigis suggests that Limnio be added to the cellar of any serious and intrepid collector. "It's an extremely fine variety with fabulous potential to make great, ageworthy wines," he says. Bottles to TryTsantali 2014 Agiorgitiko Abaton Gold Selection (Mount Athos); $35, 89 points. Aromas of ripe red berries, cherry and spice are followed by rich flavors of cherry, currant and vanilla in this blend of 50% Xinomavro, 30% Grenache and 20% Limnio. The wine offers good structure and a touch of smoke, with a lingering finish of fruit and spice. It's an ageworthy wine at a good price. RobolaFresh, citrusy and lightly aromatic, this white grape originates from the Ionian island of Cephalonia and is believed to date to at least the 12th century. Though the variety is now grown on other islands in the Ionian chain, its main production is still on Cephalonia. It's protected under the Robola of Cephalonia Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) designation. Robola's best expression comes from the exact environment found on Cephalonia: high-altitude, barren mountain sites with limestone-rich soils. This terroir yields the high acidity, citrus fruits and smoky minerality that distinguishes Robola and invites comparisons to Chablis. Producing Robola is not for the faint-hearted, a factor that contributes to its rarity. The grape's tendency toward oxidation requires deft handling by experienced winemakers, and in locations like Mount Ainos, vineyards are planted on slopes that necessitate hand harvesting. In fact, the appearance of these vines rising out of the chunky limestone scree inspired the occupying 16th-century Venetians to dub the wine "Vino di Sasso," or wine of stone. Gentilini Winery is the island's premier Robola producer. The Gentilini family has centuries-old ties to the island, but its winemaking history began in the 1970s, when Spiro-Nicholas Kosmetatos planted his first vineyard. Today, Gentilini produces three distinctive varietal expressions: a wild yeast bottling, a superpremium high-altitude bottling and a classic stainless-steel style. Spiro-Nicholas' daughter, Marianna Kosmetatos, owns the winery with her husband, Petros. She says all three bottlings reflect the original terroir of the island. "Robola has characteristics completely unique to the appellation on Cephalonia, including balanced acidity, minerality and citrus fruit," she says. "We experiment [with it] constantly, [because it] has so much potential." Kosmetatos says that limited acreage and a reluctance by younger vintners to farm the existing tricky parcels pose obstacles for the category. Yet, she has no doubt the demand will be there, if people just give the wine a try. "It has the potential to give super premium wines of great complexity and longevity," she says, "If more wineries/growers follow…suit, the future of Robola is bright." Bottles to TryGentilini 2019 Wild Paths Robola (Cephalonia); $43, 92 points. Named for the steep, single-vineyard location where it's grown, this delicate and refined wine starts with lemon-lime and peach aromas, followed by zingy waves of citrus fruit and stone on the palate. A touch of vanilla and honey gives it extra heft, but the wine finishes pert and fresh. Sclavos 2019 Di Sasso (Cephalonia); $28, 90 points. This intense white starts with aromas of white flowers, tangerine, peach and grapefruit, followed by vibrant flavors of lemon, peach, stone and orange rind. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, the wine finishes with toasted nut and honey. LiatikoA visit to Crete is an immersion in the ancient wine world. Vestiges of the island's 4,000 years of viticulture seem to be found everywhere, whether you tour the ruins of Minoan wine presses or view millennia-old frescoes that depict everyday wine enjoyment. You may also stumble over the stones of antique amphorae half-submerged in vineyard soil. Liatiko's connection to Crete dates to the 2nd or 3rd century B.C. The variety is mentioned throughout the island's history, including in 13th-century texts (referencing the famous sun-dried Malvasia sweet wine of the time, in which Liatiko was included) and in 16th-century vineyard purchase documents. Centuries-old Liatiko vineyards are found across Crete, but there are only a handful of producers that still make the variety. Among them are Lyrarakis Winery, Diamantakis, Economou and Douloufakis. Lyrarakis has been experimenting with Liatiko in various local sites, from old vines in Sitia to high-altitude vineyards in Amari, near Rethymno. In addition to its varietal Aggelis Liatiko, Lyrarakis produces a Liatiko rosé that showcases the grape's brighter character. The wine offers delicately spicy, rich red–berry flavors with soft tannins and moderate acidity. Though often blended with Crete's Mandalaria and Kotsifali varieties, the grape's varietal expression can exhibit beautifully its signature intense floral aromas and warming-spice character. "The timing is right to showcase the variety's strengths," says Bart Lyrarakis, owner of Lyrarakis. He strives for a lighter, more delicate expression of Liatiko. "Consumer taste all over the world has been turning more and more to this kind of wine. It is here to stay." Bottles to TryLyrarakis 2018 Aggelis Liatiko (Crete); $24, 91 points. Layered aromas of blackberry, cherry, lavender and anise are followed by flavors of dried cherry, crushed herbs and allspice in this crisp, balanced red made from 100-year-old ungrafted vines. The wine offers firm grip and bright acidity, with a delicious anise and herb finish. Douloufakis 2018 Dafnios; (Dafnes); $17, 88 points. Tropical fruit and apricot aromas and a palate of creamy tropical fruit and minerals give this wine a decidedly Greek character. Fresh and balanced in the finish, it’s an easy-drinking Vidiano that will pair well with spicy cuisine and salty cheeses. |
| Spain’s Best Red Wine Vintages to Drink in 2021 Posted: 22 Apr 2021 04:30 AM PDT  One of the calling cards of a classic Spanish red wine, whether it’s a complex Rioja Gran Reserva, a concentrated Tinto Fino from Ribera del Duero, or a bold Priorat blend, is that it's drinkable when young, but built to last. But not all Iberian vintages are created equal. Some benefit from an ideal combination of controlled warmth, moderate precipitation and favorable harvest conditions. Others do not. Standout vintages from the most recent decade are widely considered to be 2010, 2016 and 2019. The 2011, 2012 and 2015 vintages are, in general, very good vintages, albeit warm ones that produced fuller, lustier, more saturated wines. That leaves 2013, 2014, 2017 and 2018 as years where the weather across much of Spain didn't fully cooperate. The result was widespread inconsistency. Concentrating on what's best, let's start with 2010, a year that was excellent across Spain. Exceptional high-end wines were produced from Bierzo all the way east to Catalonia, a wine-rich swath anchored by Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Consistent summer weather backed by a cool, dry early fall resulted in ripe yet balanced Tempranillo-based wines. It also produced exceptional Mencía in Bierzo, and superb Garnacha and Carignan in Catalonia. Almost 11 years past that harvest, 2010 wines to seek out include Rioja Gran Reservas, which spend at least five years in cask and bottle before release, and Ribera del Duero Reservas and Gran Reservas. On a par with that is 2016, another year in which winemakers could do little wrong. Many Gran Reservas from Rioja and Ribera will be released this year, and these wines should be snapped up and stored away for future enjoyment. As you cellar those 2016 Gran Reservas, enjoy the vintage's Crianzas and Reservas with abandon. They're as good as it gets. Waiting to join those vintages is a more recent standout, 2019. Since those grapes were picked, Spanish winemakers have reported nothing but good things about the vintage. Time will tell if the 2019s are at the level of 2010 and 2016, or if they were overhyped because 2017 and 2018 were lackluster. As for the decade's very good years, 2011 was a hot, dry vintage that yielded mostly powerful Tempranillos and other reds. Some wines may be a bit too ripe and concentrated to be considered classics, but you won't encounter any hollow, raw or underripe wines. The same goes for 2012, a drought year with small yields. Intense wines with strong tannins were quite common, but that means they're good cellar dwellers. While on the subject of hot years and powerful wines, 2015 is definitely one of those vintages. The harvest was praised widely in its immediate aftermath, but on the heels of two prior years fraught with ripeness and purity issues (2013 and 2014), it may have gotten more credit than it deserves. Based on extensive blind tastings, I've found 2015 to be a typically warm vintage that produced mostly ripe, pulpy reds with not a lot of refinement. It was a strong year for brawny, dark and ripe wines, but one where that elusive perfect structure offered by Spain's best thoroughbred reds is often missing. And there you have it, a decade with some greatness, some laggards and much in between.
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| Seven Essential Tools Every Home Bartender Needs Posted: 22 Apr 2021 04:00 AM PDT  The idea of playing bartender at home may seem intimidating. It's not nearly as simple as opening and enjoying a bottle of wine, after all. But stock up on these essential bar tools and you'll be on your way to shaking and stirring cocktails like a pro from the comfort of your own kitchen.  OXO Steel Double JiggerA mini measuring cup designed for cocktail mixology, a jigger ensures that your ingredient measurements are exact. Like baking, a little goes a long way in cocktails and improper measurements can dramatically change a recipe. A double-sided jigger, like this one from OXO, contains measurement increments ranging from ¼ ounce to 1½ ounce, and the non-slip grip ensures you won't accidentally drop it while pouring. $10 Amazon LUCKYGOOBO Stainless Steel Cocktail ShakerNot all cocktails should be shaken, but many classics like daiquiris and margaritas call for it. A cocktail shaker is used to integrate all of the ingredients together and while most professional bartenders use a Boston shaker (two pieces), a three-piece cobbler shaker, which comes with a built-in strainer, is a more user-friendly option for home bartenders. This leak-proof, all-in-one shaker is dishwasher safe for an easy clean. It's also made with ultradurable stainless steel, meaning it won't rust, dent or scratch as you perfect your skills. $13 Amazon MOFADO Crystal Cocktail Mixing GlassSpirit-forward cocktails that don't include fruit juice like lemon or lime—think a Martini or an Old Fashioned—should be generally stirred, not shaken. That's where this stunning crystal mixing glass comes in handy. It will look great on your bar cart, too. It's heavy-duty and seamless, and won't crack or break like many glasses made with cheaper materials. The weighted bottom prevents this model from tipping over while stirring, while the spout makes for easier pouring. $20 Amazon Zulay Stainless Steel Cocktail SpoonUnlike your typical kitchen spoon, bar spoons have extra-long handles for leverage, which help to create more momentum with less effort when stirring. The best bar spoon handles are spiral for smooth stirring, like this model from Zulay. It comes in five finishes and at 12-inches long can even stir a full pitcher of a big batch cocktail. Along with mixing or layering drinks, the Zulay spoon is also handy for crushing ice and scooping olives, pickled onions or other garnishes out of tiny jars. $5 Amazon OXO Steel Cocktail StrainerCobbler shakers come with a built-in strainer. But if you opt for a two-piece Boston shaker instead, you'll need a separate strainer to hold back ice, fruit or other solids while pouring a drink into your glass. A flat, Hawthorne-style strainer like this OXO model, can adapt to different glass sizes and has a snug spring coil that stops even small solids from sneaking through. An added bonus, this strainer has a comfortable, nonslip finger rest and a raised lip to prevent dripping. $8 Amazon Fletchers' Mull MuddlerWhen working with fresh fruit or herbs, a muddler helps to extract juices and oils. It's also used to gently crush sugar cubes in drinks like a classically prepared Old Fashioned. The Fletchers' Mill 11-inch muddler is longer than most, giving it better reach in tall glasses. Its flat base won't tear up delicate herbs, unlike muddlers with more aggressive teeth. An ergonomic handle means you won't be working too hard for your beverage and the smooth wood finish makes it less likely to slip in your hand. $17 Amazon Cocktail Kingdom Essential Cocktail SetIf you want quality bar set, the Cocktail Kingdom Essential Cocktail Set will set you up with all of the mixology basics (minus a muddler) for $99. This kit includes a seamless mixing glass, bar spoon, double sided jigger, Boston-style shaker and a Hawthorne strainer. If you want to go a little fancier, you can spend extra money to have it copper or gold plated. You might also consider some efficient "nice to have" tools like a citrus press, a peeler for garnishes, and different-shaped ice cube trays. $100 Amazon |
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