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Thursday, May 13, 2021

Brewing With Briess

Brewing With Briess


The Legacy of Roger Briess and the Start of the Craft Beer Movement

Posted: 12 May 2021 02:30 PM PDT

Pioneer on a Mission with Malt

Craft beer has become well established in the United States and is a cherished part of life for many of us.

There are more than 8,000 craft breweries in the U.S. and new breweries are opening every year. Beginning in the 1970s, craft beer ushered in a renaissance in the category and has created an entirely new perspective about beer across generations of beer enthusiasts. How often do we take a moment to look back on the industry's journey and appreciate the pioneers who brought us here?

One of those pioneers was Roger Briess, fourth-generation owner and leader of Briess Malt & Ingredients. 

Roger was a visionary who deeply believed in the craft beer movement. He knew the importance of high-quality specialty malt to making beer that delivered what brewers want to achieve and what consumers expect.

He fiercely advocated for cooperation and partnership in the craft beer industry, a message that has always been a hallmark of the industry and continues to be amplified by the Brewers Association.

Many of us who are connected to the craft beer community did not have an opportunity to meet Roger or understand his legacy. To learn more about the man and his mission, I spoke with some brewing legends who knew Roger and collaborated with him when craft beer was in its infancy and before anyone knew where it would lead.

Dan Carey, Brewmaster at New Glarus Brewing, said that craft beer "was personal to Roger." In the early days of his brewery, Dan wanted to make a German-style beer and reached out to Briess. "The first time I called Briess' office in Chilton, Roger picked up the phone. I told him what I was trying to do and he said 'Grab a pen, let's design a recipe.' We discussed the percentage of each malt. In those days every time I was creating a recipe, I called him up. Roger was very knowledgeable." 

Charlie Papazian, Founder of the Association of Brewers and longtime former President of the Brewers Association, described Roger as "the first craft maltster who was accessible to craft brewers. He offered malt in packages that were usable by small craft brewers." Charlie noted that "95% of craft brewers started by homebrewing, and Roger's ideas, innovation, and helpfulness were the counterpart start for the craft supply industry." In the early days there was a high level of uncertainty in the craft beer industry, including financial instability for many of the small breweries. Charlie noted that "Roger took risks supplying product to brewers not knowing whether they would be able to pay." Roger was passionate about the success of craft brewers, and he was willing to accept additional risk for his business in order to help his customers succeed.

David Grinnell, VP of Brewing and Quality at Boston Beer, has been involved at the revolutionary craft company since its earliest days and was one of the key players who led the company to its current level of success. David said, "In the early days Briess was the only game in town. At Boston Beer we were so immature as a company. Roger was there holding our hands; you guys were the complete package." He summarized by stating "The craft brewing revolution went on as long as it did because of Roger Briess."

Joe Hertrich, retired Group Director of Brewing Raw Materials at Anheuser-Busch, with more than 50 years in the industry, recalled that in the 1980s the only product available was base malt to make international-standard lagers. To fill that void, "Roger started the pre-ground malt business because he was getting involved with small craft brewers who didn't have a mill." Joe described him as a "permanently curious person." On one occasion, Joe and Roger visited Briess' Insta Grains® plant, and the two of them stood in front of a board that showed all the products made at the plant. Roger demonstrated his passion for innovation when he said "We should be able to put together a 12-grain beer."

Ted Marti, President at Schell's Brewery, noted that "Roger was always organizing brewers to do something." Early in the life of Schell's Brewery, Ted was looking for a particular type of yeast. He knew Roger was resourceful and let him know what he was trying to obtain. He said "Roger reached out to his connection at Weihenstephan University, who connected him to a German brewery that sent over a quarter barrel of yeast." Roger paid for the shipping, and Ted said, "It was all Roger helping us get off the ground." He noted Schell's is still using that yeast today.

Roger always attended industry trade shows. David Grinnell and Charlie Papazian both remember meeting Roger for the first time at a trade show, probably one of the early GABF or Homebrew Con shows. Charlie described at that time "Craft brewing was like a dark cloud; you couldn't get people to understand, distribute, or sell it. Roger Briess and Ron Siebel were the first industry people who threw their support wholeheartedly behind what we were trying to do. They could see the ideas floating around the room were something they wanted to be a part of." David added that "Roger didn't make a distinction between large and small brewers" and asked a rhetorical question "Where would all the craft brewers have gone if it weren't for Roger?"

When asked about Roger's legacy, Dan Carey said "For at least the first decade of the craft beer business, specialty malts were always represented by Briess. They understood they had to have value-added products and developed a whole stable of specialty malts. Roger determined early on the company was going to be a specialty maltster, not a commodity maltster." Joe Hertrich echoed that by saying "When craft beer started, Roger was there to do anything and everything." Ted Marti commented that "Without Roger, the small brewers had nothing to brew with. Everything was for American lager beers, and Roger always went out of his way to help the little guys."

Roger was an eclectic person who had a wide range of interests, from classical music to woodworking. Dan Carey described him as "very energetic, gregarious, always looked you in the eye, and genuinely liked people." David Grinnell made similar comments by saying Roger was "gracious, generous, and a good host." Charlie Papazian characterized him as a "pioneer and explorer" and Joe Hertrich added Roger was "innovative and enthusiastic, especially about other people's ideas." 

Those character traits were evident because Roger was passionate about malt and beer, which was a common theme from everyone I spoke with. Joe Hertrich stated Roger was "the most craft-sensitive maltster there ever was." At one point Joe wanted a mesquite smoked malt – "something dry and uniquely mesquite." That flavor profile represents a considerable development challenge. Joe noted Roger was able to deliver that malt after just the second round of trials, and "if you dig into Briess' catalog, there is still a mesquite smoked malt there."

Roger was born on February 11, 1937. Early in his career, Roger was trained at Weihenstephan University in Germany. He had a deep appreciation for traditional brewing methods, and they were a springboard for his exploration into the range of possibilities for malt and craft beer. When third-generation maltster Eric Briess died in 1971, Roger took over leadership of the company. His first major capital investment was to acquire long-term partner Chilton Malting Company in 1978, after which he made additional expenditures to increase roasting capacity. He understood that malt is the heart of the brewing process, and he dedicated his life to sharing that passion with others.

Roger married Monica in 1964, and together they pursued Roger's passion. When Roger died unexpectedly in 2001, Monica took the reins and delivered on the same vision and commitment which Roger held dear. She led the company through the years when craft beer became more widely accepted and demand for the company's food ingredients was growing. Roger and Monica's son Craig has been involved in the company since Roger's death 20 years ago, and in recent years has taken on a central role.

Roger loved life and was passionate about craft beer and craft malt. Twenty years after his death, Roger's vision is still part of everything we do at Briess.

So, the next time you visit a taproom, bar, or restaurant, order your favorite craft beer and raise a glass with "Cheers!" to Roger Briess and all those who had the vision and dedication to create the craft beer industry that we know and love.

Exploring Organic

Posted: 12 May 2021 11:55 AM PDT

What is organic and how does it relate to beer?

Organic has two primary origins: "Relating to or derived from living matter; organic soils.” And "(of food or farming methods) produced or involving production without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or other artificial agents.” Organic is the production of products using an ecologically-based system.

Organic agriculture is an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles, and soil biological activity. It is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain, and enhance ecological harmony.

Organic Process flow for grains

'Organic' is a labeling term that denotes products produced under the authority of the Organic Foods Production Act. The principal guidelines for organic production are to use materials and practices that enhance the ecological balance of natural systems and that integrate the parts of the farming system into an ecological whole. Certification is standardized by the USDA National Organics Program. Independent agencies are used for certifying organic operations. The current National Organic Standard is 7 CFR Part 205.

Organically-produced foods cannot use genetically engineered materials, sewage sludge, or ionizing radiation. Growers, handlers, and producers must be certified organic and must maintain the integrity of organic materials. The United States is the only country to certify products in 100% organic form, thus requiring heavy documentation.

Traceability and pest control are two areas where basic documentation is required. Traceability requires 100% disclosure of all transactions, readily understood and auditable, as well as a clear audit trail from incoming ingredients through the sale of finished goods. From a pest control standpoint, facilities are required to manage practices to prevent pests, as well as document measures taken to prevent contamination of organic products/packaging.

Segregation, contamination, and co-mingling avoidance are essential elements of an organic program. Facilities handling both organic and non-organic are required to have programs in place AND demonstrate their ability to maintain organic product integrity. Chemical usage/sanitation practices must be in place and not compromise organic standards.

Organic ingredients must be certified by a USDA-accredited certifying agent and non-agricultural ingredients/processing aids are limited to those on the "National List."

In 1990, Briess was the first malting company to be certified organic.  Our organic certifying body is Oregon Tilth.  (Prior to 2005, it was the Organic Crop Improvement Association.)  The program and its documentation are overseen by Leona Propson, our Quality Systems Supervisor.

Briess offers over 100 product variations under organic certification, making us the largest organic ingredient supplier in the United States used in brewing, food, and pet food production applications. To find a complete listing of organic products used in brewing applications please view here. And finally, to check out our food and pet food organic ingredients please view here.

Here is an example of organic certification:

In closing, we hope this blog has provided some insights about organic ingredients and certification. If you have any questions, please contact your Division Manager.

Thank you and Cheers!

Supply Chain Challenges and Solutions

Posted: 12 May 2021 10:12 AM PDT

The COVID-19 pandemic has highlighted supply chain issues in all industries. 

More than perhaps ever before, the world is deeply interconnected and events that happen many time zones away can have long-lasting repercussions for all of us. Shipping container shortages. Port delays. Long lead times. The Suez Canal. Ballooning freight costs. It almost sounds like the lyrics to a bad Billy Joel song update. Unfortunately, the raw material supply chain for the brewing industry is fraying at the edges.

What can you do to be prepared? With longer lead times now the norm, you may want to consider simply keeping more inventory on hand. Delays and longer transit times in shipping also mean that planning ahead is crucial. Give your suppliers more notice if possible. A forecast is also one of the most useful things that you can provide your suppliers with, regardless of whether it's malt, hops, yeast, etc. Ask your sales staff for an estimate of your customers' needs and use that to create a forecast for your supplier. For Briess, those forecasts help us with our production schedule and ensure we keep out-of-stocks to a minimum.

Still, we are in tumultuous times. Even with the best planning, you may be facing a shortage of critical raw materials for your brewery. Having a secondary/new malt supplier that you trust will help minimize some of that risk. With that in mind, here are some tips for qualifying a new malt.

  1. Talk to a maltster/supplier. Tell them about your brewing practices and specs. Ask questions. Don't be shy. Tell them what is important to you. Is it enzyme levels? Perhaps color is a major concern.
  2. Ask for a Typical Analysis or Certificate of Analysis (COA). This is a common request. The Typical Analysis may even already be available on their website (it is for Briess). Compare this to a COA for your current malt. Will you need to adjust your brewing processes at all? Does the assortment require any changes to your mill gap settings?
  3. Ask for a sample. This is another common request and should be easily accommodated. 
  4. Sensory. In addition to chewing on the malt, do some hot steeps. For hot steep instructions, see – https://www.brewingwithbriess.com/blog/the-hot-steep-method-step-by-step-instructions/. Make hot steep samples with the malt in question and your primary malt. Taste them blindly side by side. Is there a noticeable difference? Is there a preference? Perform a triangle test (2 samples of one, 1 sample of the other). Can members of your team pick out which one is different? How different? Do a hot steep or mini-mash that mimics your mash recipe.
  5. With specialty malts, consider replacing one malt with a couple of new malts. Blending is another option that can get you to where you need to be. This happened recently with a customer that wanted to replace an imported Vienna malt. It turns out our Goldpils® Vienna with an inclusion of our Aromatic Munich Malt turned out to be close to a spot-on match.

When you are comfortable and have made a decision, it would be wise to gradually move from one malt to another, especially when it's a base malt. If your brewery does multiple fills into a fermentor, run one of the brews with the malt change in mind and evaluate the entire spectrum of the brew, how it handled, color, flavor, and yield. Taste it against one of the standard brews all the way through, first and last worts, kettle full, end of boil, etc. Taste all wort samples at room temperature with other teammates and keep it blind. Depending on the proposed malt change, if it's one brew in a couple or many brews, it's not likely to affect the tank blend.

If this is not an option and you're brewing one batch into one fermentor, then ease into the transition, maybe starting with 25% inclusion in the grist. This will help you stretch your initial supply. Then move on to 50% inclusion. Sensory should be performed at various stages including on the finished product against your control/original recipe. Finally, if sensory supports it, use 100% inclusion of the new malt.

Perhaps things are tight, and you don't have the time to space it out like this. In that case, I would recommend doing back-to-back brews with different malts and ferment them separately. If you have sensory difference, you can blend the two to eliminate or make the difference as small as possible.

These are challenging times for our industry. Now more than ever it's important to think ahead and examine other solutions/options. Please don't hesitate to reach out to your Briess Division Manager if you have any questions or need any recommendations. We are happy to help.

Falcon Foursome!

Posted: 10 May 2021 08:46 AM PDT

Since 1992 more than 75 falcons have been born in Briess' nesting box at our malt plant in Manitowoc, Wisconsin as part of the state-wide falcon recovery program.  The malt plant is on the Lake Michigan shoreline and the nesting box is on the 11th story of a grain elevator with a magnificent view of the lake.

This year's pair of adults includes Bartell, who was produced at the MG&E power plant nest site in Madison in 2015 and has returned to Briess' nesting box for the fifth consecutive year.  The female is unbanded but is believed to be the same female as last year based on her markings and behavior.

Falcons normally lay three to four eggs in April, and this year our nesting pair produced four eggs.  Four healthy eyasses were born between May 6-9, and the parents have been busy feeding them ever since.  Check out the pictures and video for a close-up look at the action!

This year's eyasses will be named after four employees at Briess' malt plant in Chilton, Wisconsin: Bruce, Mark, Red, and Tom.

  Each of these team members have worked at the plant for more than 40 years!  We honor their dedication and commitment to producing the finest handcrafted malt since the earliest days of the craft beer revolution.

To watch the action in Briess' nesting box anytime, check out the Falcon Cam on our website: https://about.briess.com/sustainability-program/falcon-recovery-program

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